> i have to be realistic, with no soldering experience and at =A310 per cap=
sule it could end up being quite expensive if i make a mistake.
stu,
To save you looking in the archives for soldering info, here is roughly wha=
t
I posted:
Most small devices are rated at 1 second soldering time and you can usually=
do it shorter than that. If it doesn't go right' let it cool, desolder, coo=
l
and try again.
Do not depend on the flux in solder wire - use extra flux. I use
electrician's flux. This is the most important advice I have.
Pre-tin the connecting wire - again using surplus flux.
The soldering iron should be just hot enough to melt solder cleanly. If
using an iron without a temperature control, rest the tip on a block or
sheet of metal to stop it overheating. Wet the iron tip with flux and
solder.
Keep the job neat with insulation nearly up to the join. You can encapsulat=
e
the join in silicone rubber and also mount small devices like capsules usin=
g
silicone.
> i know both will produce hiss / self noise but just how different are the=
se capsules in real world
Cheap devices are hissy - that's show biz - and you need to add zeroes to
the price to get low noise, but hiss can be minimised.
I've got an experimental rig:
www.stowford.org/sounds/brinibox.htm
This is as crude as you like but gives a gain of about 12dB, ie. less hiss,=
and a good stereo image. A test is on:
http://www.stowford.org/recordings.htm#stereotest
David Brinicombe
"While a picture is worth a thousand words, a
sound is worth a thousand pictures." R. Murray Schafer via Bernie Krause.
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