At 05:41 PM 3/7/2005, you wrote:
> > I had thought of this and was wishing for one of those old Mattel
> > vacuformers. Do you have any suggestions for temp/time?
>
>It will mold very reluctantly at boiling water temperature. I'm guessing
>50-100 degrees above that, but have not got around to trying it.
>
>The mold I made was initially a 3" PVC pipe cap machined to a more
>rounded shape. It was hard to hold the hot plastic against it, so I
>machined another PVC pipe fitting to be the outside. Put a flat,
>circular piece on the inside, push the outside ring down around it and
>let it cool. With a little more fumbling as to temperature it should go
>pretty good. I was experimenting with boiling water temperatures.
Yeah, a little Googling around indicates a temp of 200-250F, but that's for=
more traditional materials, so will just have to experiment. This stuff is=
very soft already. . Today I made a plug to form the male component of a
drape mold. I used a torpedo shaped "Smart Water" bottle of almost exactly=
4" diam, cutting of the top portion, turning it over, filled the neck with=
cork, and then filled the half-globe with plaster of paris. Filling the
neck made it easy after extraction to sand it to a perfect round. Will now=
make an adjustable frame to hold the plastic canvas on four sides while in=
the oven, and for pulling down over the plug. I anticipated the
difficulty of getting the hot plastic to conform to the mold, so I'm going=
to try running the outer portion of one of the embroidery hoops down over
it. Will be interesting.
Good to hear confirmation that the fabric inside/outside the coarse mesh
probably doesn't matter much . Haven't seen the Sennheiser units, just the=
Rycotes. Thinking micro-aerodynamically, each would have their benefits,=
but that's probably going too far! Going the inside route initially will
make it simpler to experiment with different fabrics.
Understand about the PVC shock mounts. I'll probably try some with the
ears. Another thought that occurred to me was spacing the two bungee
structures further apart and using narrower rings. Would make the mic more=
laterally stable in the process, as this one tends to slip I notice. I may=
clip or cinch the X's to limit that.
Thanks again.
Ken
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