At 11:21 AM 3/6/2005, you wrote:
>You probably won't like the modelmaking mesh when you try slipping the
>fabric cover on. It's possible to mold the plastic canvas by heating it
>in a oven and shaping it while hot over a mold. I've experimented with
>that using a mold that was made by modifying a PVC pipe cap to make it
>more rounded and it works.
I had thought of this and was wishing for one of those old Mattel
vacuformers. Do you have any suggestions for temp/time?
>The other way would be the latchook mesh which could be molded while wet
>then painted with enough paint to make it stiff enough.
Michael's I went to didn't seem to know about this. I'll keep looking.
I'm still hoping for a 4" plastic strainer or something.
>You could also dip that modelmaking mesh in the tool dip stuff to smooth
>it out for slipping fabric over.
> > I picked up a roll of polyester fleece while I was out, thinking I migh=
t
> > try lining the zepp with it - anyone done this? Seems pretty transpare=
nt,
> > but might color too much.
>
>Only one way to find out for sure, put it on and see what happens. It's
>on my list of possible cover fabrics as well.
>
> > As I understand it, when I get the domes worked out, I am going to want=
to
> > cover the entire structure with nylon stocking-like material, and for m=
ore
> > windy days, fake fur. I am also contemplating using the fine
> mesh-on-frame
> > OEM windscreens (not foam filters) on the mics inside the zepp, for
> another
> > layer of still air.
>
>Yes, as it stands it won't do much of anything, the thin fabric layer is
>necessary. Putting a thin cover on the mics themselves is a common
>practice. I use knit baby socks, the tube sock kind.
>
>I noticed some clamps sticking out from the hoops. You need to find a
>way to get rid of them or you will be cussing them every time you put
>fabric on.
The clamp on top is definitely temporary. I was thinking the two
embroidery hoop clamps on the bottom would stay, that the fabric cover
could be made to have a slot at the bottom, or possibly be two-part, top
and bottom.
One thing I noticed in the Rycote zepp is that the fabric screen is
*inside* of the coarser mesh. Does it matter? Does the coarse mesh
(plastic canvas in my case) being on the outside provide any advantage,
turbulence wise? I'm just comparing this option to what I've seen more
often mentioned here, which puts a layer of nylon on the outside of the
coarse mesh zepp structure rather than inside of it like the Rycote. This=
could also make a difference concerning the inconvenience of the protruding=
clamps.
Thanks for all the ideas.
Ken
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