Hi Guys,
This project might be the kind that sits and watches me practice until sure=
of what to do, or a professional here in Vietnam that is clear on the heat=
sensitivity of the mics.
Many Thanks!
Mark
On Sep 17, 2012, at 5:12 AM, Eric Leonardson <> wrot=
e:
> Here's a nice "how to solder" tutorial from Nicolas Collins:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DAL-_RGbyf1s&feature=3Dyoutube_gdata_play=
er
>
> Sent via mobile device.
> Eric Leonardson
>
>
> On Sep 16, 2012, at 13:15, wrote:
>
> > The photo of the 'kit' shows that the mic capsules have no wires attach=
ed.
> > A soldering *gun* will be so huge in terms of size and heat that it wil=
l indeed destroy the capsules.
> >
> > You need a very small iron, about 10 - 15 watts, preferably temperature=
-controlled, with a miniature conical tip. Use high grade, low melting poin=
t solder. The cost of this could easily be 3 - 5 times the cost of the mic =
kit. But you'll have a good tool to construct future cables and rigs.
> >
> > There is no "foolproof" method of soldering. You must learn the techniq=
ue and the practice,practice, practice! If you have not done any fine work =
of this sort, it may be best to just have a professional do it for you. You=
can also have them teach you and help you out while you do it. Otherwise y=
ou may have cold solder joints or ruin the capsules. Perhaps there are some=
tutorials on YouTube.
> >
> > In a nutshell, here is the technique:
> > 1) heat the soldering iron to about 600 - 700 degrees Fahrenheit.
> > 2) apply solder to the tip of the iron to coat it. This is called 'tinn=
ing'. Then wipe the tip off on a moistened ( not "wet") sponge and re-apply=
a thin coat of solder. Do the wiping/tinning process each time before sold=
ering a wire.
> > 3) strip the wires ends appropriately to the length required, which dep=
ends on where they are being soldered. In the case of the mic capsules, the=
bare wire length should be about 2mm long, shorter than each solder pad on=
the mic so that you do not end up with short circuits!
> > 4) tin each bare wire end by applying the iron tip from under the coppe=
r wire and apply fresh solder to the top of the wire until it melts and flo=
ws freely. Remove the applied solder from the wire as soon as it coats the =
copper. Be careful not to melt the insulation of the wire. Remove the iron =
form the wire as soon as it has been tinned properly. When the wire cools d=
own, check it to see if the tinned length is still correct. If it is too lo=
ng, use a small pair of diagonal cutters to trim it back to the correct len=
gth.
> > 5) make sure that the iron is now clean and tinned properly. Bring the =
wire end close to the capsule. Have the capsule held securely in a small be=
nch vise with rubber jaws, but adjust the force to just prevent the mic for=
m moving. Don't crush the mic and have the solder pads facing upward. Apply=
the iron tip to the top of wire to melt the solder on the wire as you brin=
g the wire down onto the pad. As soon as the pad solder melts, the wire sho=
uld be as far down onto the pad as it can get. The moment that the solder f=
lows freely one the pad and around the wire, remove the iron and keep the w=
ire end *absolutely* still until the solder cools. The solder joint should =
look shiny, not dull. If it is dull the you have what is known as a 'cold' =
solder joint which is a bad connection and is mechanically poor. If this ha=
ppens, you need to take the wire and remove it, clean the wire end and the =
pad with Solder Wick and start over. But you must be very mindful of how mu=
ch heat to use eac h time you do this. The idea is to use enough heat to do=
the job quickly, but not enough to damage the mic pads or the element. The=
proper technique is developed only through practice and experience. Again,=
find a tutor or have it done by an experienced person that has the right t=
ools. BTW, don't nick the wire when you strip the ends!! If you do that, it=
will break off and sever the connection at some point. If you do nick the =
wire, cut it off at the nicked point and re-strip the end.
> >
> > There are many more things that can be said about this process, but jus=
t practicing on junk with various pieces of wire is important. There should=
be other resources on the web for this. Remember to buy good miniature han=
d tools and but a high quality soldering iron and solder.
> >
> > As for what wire goes where, well that is something that should be incl=
uded with the kit.
> >
> > Good luck with your project! I hope that I have given you some insight =
into the process.
> >
> > -Greg
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> > On Sep 16, 2012, at 12:05 PM, Peter Shute <> wrote:
> >
> > > The EM172s I got from Frogloggers already had short leads attached, a=
nd Gene said he doesn't attach them, they just come like that. Perhaps your=
s will have them too when they arrive, and you won't have to solder them di=
rectly.
> > >
> > > Peter Shute
> > >
> > >
> > > --------------------------
> > > Sent using BlackBerry
> > >
> > > ________________________________
> > > From:
> > > To:
> > > Sent: Mon Sep 17 01:46:31 2012
> > > Subject: [Nature Recordists] Tips DIY for Primo Em172
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi All,
> > >
> > > Recently ordered DIY kit for the Primo em172 from FEL ( http://www.mi=
cbooster.com/products/diystereomicroph.html )
> > > in the UK to ship to my location here in Vietnam. Have a standard one=
setting soldeting gun and I know there was some discussion on how not to o=
verheat the capsules. My soldering skills are minimal at best. Any tips on =
how best to gauge overheating those capsules? Or >foolproof< techniques to =
make sure I don't?
> > >
> > > Cheers!
> > >
> > > Mark
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
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