[Top] [All Lists]

Re: Tips DIY for Primo Em172

Subject: Re: Tips DIY for Primo Em172
From: "Mark" seoulgypsy
Date: Sun Sep 16, 2012 4:32 pm ((PDT))
Hi Guys,

This project might be the kind that sits and watches me practice until sure=
 of what to do, or a professional here in Vietnam that is clear on the heat=
 sensitivity of the mics.

Many Thanks!

On Sep 17, 2012, at 5:12 AM, Eric Leonardson <> wrot=

> Here's a nice "how to solder" tutorial from Nicolas Collins:
> Sent via mobile device.
> Eric Leonardson
> On Sep 16, 2012, at 13:15,  wrote:
> > The photo of the 'kit' shows that the mic capsules have no wires attach=
> > A soldering *gun* will be so huge in terms of size and heat that it wil=
l indeed destroy the capsules.
> >
> > You need a very small iron, about 10 - 15 watts, preferably temperature=
-controlled, with a miniature conical tip. Use high grade, low melting poin=
t solder. The cost of this could easily be 3 - 5 times the cost of the mic =
kit. But you'll have a good tool to construct future cables and rigs.
> >
> > There is no "foolproof" method of soldering. You must learn the techniq=
ue and the practice,practice, practice! If you have not done any fine work =
of this sort, it may be best to just have a professional do it for you. You=
 can also have them teach you and help you out while you do it. Otherwise y=
ou may have cold solder joints or ruin the capsules. Perhaps there are some=
 tutorials on YouTube.
> >
> > In a nutshell, here is the technique:
> > 1) heat the soldering iron to about 600 - 700 degrees Fahrenheit.
> > 2) apply solder to the tip of the iron to coat it. This is called 'tinn=
ing'. Then wipe the tip off on a moistened ( not "wet") sponge and re-apply=
 a thin coat of solder. Do the wiping/tinning process each time before sold=
ering a wire.
> > 3) strip the wires ends appropriately to the length required, which dep=
ends on where they are being soldered. In the case of the mic capsules, the=
 bare wire length should be about 2mm long, shorter than each solder pad on=
 the mic so that you do not end up with short circuits!
> > 4) tin each bare wire end by applying the iron tip from under the coppe=
r wire and apply fresh solder to the top of the wire until it melts and flo=
ws freely. Remove the applied solder from the wire as soon as it coats the =
copper. Be careful not to melt the insulation of the wire. Remove the iron =
form the wire as soon as it has been tinned properly. When the wire cools d=
own, check it to see if the tinned length is still correct. If it is too lo=
ng, use a small pair of diagonal cutters to trim it back to the correct len=
> > 5) make sure that the iron is now clean and tinned properly. Bring the =
wire end close to the capsule. Have the capsule held securely in a small be=
nch vise with rubber jaws, but adjust the force to just prevent the mic for=
m moving. Don't crush the mic and have the solder pads facing upward. Apply=
 the iron tip to the top of wire to melt the solder on the wire as you brin=
g the wire down onto the pad. As soon as the pad solder melts, the wire sho=
uld be as far down onto the pad as it can get. The moment that the solder f=
lows freely one the pad and around the wire, remove the iron and keep the w=
ire end *absolutely* still until the solder cools. The solder joint should =
look shiny, not dull. If it is dull the you have what is known as a 'cold' =
solder joint which is a bad connection and is mechanically poor. If this ha=
ppens, you need to take the wire and remove it, clean the wire end and the =
pad with Solder Wick and start over. But you must be very mindful of how mu=
ch heat to use eac h time you do this. The idea is to use enough heat to do=
 the job quickly, but not enough to damage the mic pads or the element. The=
 proper technique is developed only through practice and experience. Again,=
 find a tutor or have it done by an experienced person that has the right t=
ools. BTW, don't nick the wire when you strip the ends!! If you do that, it=
 will break off and sever the connection at some point. If you do nick the =
wire, cut it off at the nicked point and re-strip the end.
> >
> > There are many more things that can be said about this process, but jus=
t practicing on junk with various pieces of wire is important. There should=
 be other resources on the web for this. Remember to buy good miniature han=
d tools and but a high quality soldering iron and solder.
> >
> > As for what wire goes where, well that is something that should be incl=
uded with the kit.
> >
> > Good luck with your project! I hope that I have given you some insight =
into the process.
> >
> > -Greg
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> > On Sep 16, 2012, at 12:05 PM, Peter Shute <> wrote:
> >
> > > The EM172s I got from Frogloggers already had short leads attached, a=
nd Gene said he doesn't attach them, they just come like that. Perhaps your=
s will have them too when they arrive, and you won't have to solder them di=
> > >
> > > Peter Shute
> > >
> > >
> > > --------------------------
> > > Sent using BlackBerry
> > >
> > > ________________________________
> > > From: 
> > > To: 
> > > Sent: Mon Sep 17 01:46:31 2012
> > > Subject: [Nature Recordists] Tips DIY for Primo Em172
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi All,
> > >
> > > Recently ordered DIY kit for the Primo em172 from FEL ( http://www.mi= )
> > > in the UK to ship to my location here in Vietnam. Have a standard one=
 setting soldeting gun and I know there was some discussion on how not to o=
verheat the capsules. My soldering skills are minimal at best. Any tips on =
how best to gauge overheating those capsules? Or >foolproof< techniques to =
make sure I don't?
> > >
> > > Cheers!
> > >
> > > Mark
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>

The University of NSW School of Computer and Engineering takes no responsibility for the contents of this archive. It is purely a compilation of material sent by many people to the naturerecordists mailing list. It has not been checked for accuracy nor its content verified in any way. If you wish to get material removed from the archive or have other queries about the archive e-mail Andrew Taylor at this address: andrewt@cse.unsw.EDU.AU