Vicki,
To rebuild the pack, I suggest going to www.digikey.com. Digikey
sells "solder tabbed" Nicad batteries for rechargable packs (page 847
of the current catolog -- Go to Catolog:Batteries on the web site).
The two long cells are actually pairs wrapped in heatshrink (the
yellow plastic cover). You can check the measurements to find the
size you need (Rechargables come in strange sizes, like C, SC, SSC
etc). You can also order combinations of cells made up by specifying
what combinations you want. You'll need 5 cells 1.2 volts each and
around 1800 mAh or better each.
You should stay with NiCads as this is what the charger is designed
for. Make sure to leave in the "silvery connector" fuse/current
limiter.
Having said this, I also agree that the Eco-Charge is a good
alternative to consider.
- Adam Liberman
Liberman Sound
> casing of my defunct Sony D10 DAT battery (NP-22H 6 volt 1800 mAh
> rechargeable ni-cad). There were three cells inside, two long and
one
> short, linked by 2 short wires to a mysterious silvery connector
2cm long
> (which is marked IP305AF 80C ISUZU 0A3.)
>
> The two long cells look for all the world like "tuppeny bungers"
> (firecrackers), but are yellow instead of red. The batteries are
about 2.25
> cm diameter, is that about the thickness of C cells?
>
> I now have to decide what I would use for the replacement cells,
assuming
> that I go with NIMH rechargables. Should I use 4 or 5 AA cells, or
should I
> go for C cells? What are the dimensions of C cells?
>
> Rechargeable cells often run at a lower voltage than disposable
long-life
> cells, would this make a difference in the number of cells I used?
>
> What is the voltage of a freshly charged rechargeable C cell?
>
> The original Sony battery pack, when new and freshly charged, put
out up to
> 7 volts I think (the battery pack is marked 6 volt), and the tape
stops
> turning at 5.9 volts (5.5v under load).
>
> All ideas welcome!
>
> Vicki Powys
> Australia
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> on 9/6/02 3:10 PM, Walter Knapp at wrote:
>
> > Vicki Powys wrote:
> >
> >> You are full of good ideas! Actually I DO still have two dead
battery pacs
> >> but I may have to use a hacksaw to open the plastic casing,
looks like it's
> >> glued together. Size-wise, each pac could hold up to six AA
batteries.
> >>
> >> So the thought occurred to me, could I just open up the case,
trash the
> >> ni-cad contents, and re-mount five AA batteries of the NIMH
sort? (What does
> >> NIMH stand for?) Of course I would need a NIMH AA battery
charger, but if I
> >> had the case sorted out so I could easily mount or retrieve the
AAs, I could
> >> even use non-rechargeables in an emergency.
> >>
> >> What do you think of that idea?
> >
> > I almost never toss a battery pac without dissecting it. Some can
be
> > fixed up with new cells so easily it's child's play. My portable
drill,
> > for instance. It comes apart with screws, and inside are a bunch
of C
> > cell size nicads with solder terminals and one thermister. And
then
> > there are others that will drive you nuts even getting apart...
> >
> > NIMH stands for Nickel Metal Hydride, a battery type. It has the
> > advantage over nicads that it's almost immune to memory effects.
And the
> > amount of energy it will store, either on a weight or volume
basis beats
> > nicads by at least 40%.
> >
> > You were probably going to throw away those pacs, so might as
well learn
> > something. Note that cutting open with a hacksaw is kind of
crude, the
> > wide slot can be a problem putting it back together. If I get to
sawing,
> > which is rare, I normally will use a coping saw or jeweler's saw,
which
> > have much finer blades. In most cases, I'm more likely to just
crack the
> > case by prying with things like screwdrivers. The crack will go
back
> > together essentially with the same dimensions.
> >
> > It all depends on what you find inside, explore carefully.
> >
> > Depending on your resources, It may also be possible to design a
> > improved pac that will fit in something. I've been eyeing the
> > Portadisc's AA cell holder for just such a replacement job. One
of mine
> > already has a crack in it near the vulnerable center rivets. So,
I've
> > been thinking about a tubular design.
> >
> >> By the way, the Sony recharging unit (both mains and car)
automatically
> >> switches itself off when the battery is charged, so there's no
risk there of
> >> overcharging.
> >
> > Most modern chargers do this. But with some there is still a way
to
> > overcharge. If the charger uses a timer that resets if it loses
power
> > (like in a momentary power outage) and it then does another fast
charge
> > by timer... Or if it resets if the battery loses contact...
> >
> > Walt
> >
> >
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