birding-aus

Vanuatu Trip report

To:
Subject: Vanuatu Trip report
From: "Peter Ewin" <>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 15:50:12 +1100
I will try attaching in one e-mail. Otherwise I will split in to two parts.
If anyone is interested I can send as a Word Document.
Cheers,
Peter

I recently travelled to Vanuatu for two weeks for my honeymoon. Fortunately
my wife is patient enough to allow me to go bird-watching whilst we were
there. We spent one week on Efate at Iririki Resort (Port Vila) and one week
on Espiritu Santo at Coral Cays Resort (formerly Bougainville) just south of
Luganville. It was the end of the wet (or cyclone) season and so the weather
was humid, hot (around 30°C) with some rain most days. However, only on one
day did it rain most of the day (unfortunately the day I decided to try and
see most birds). As a holiday Vila was very relaxing and very friendly.
However, I would really like to return to Santo which is much more diverse
bird wise and also offers some great diving (unfortunately I ended up with a
chest cold and so the S.S. Coolidge will have to wait for a return trip).
This will be greatly simplified if the airport becomes international and
starts receiving direct flights from Australia (which is the locals hope).
The first week was mainly a week spent relaxing with bird-watching fairly
opportunistic ? Vila had been recently hit by a cyclone and as other
previous reports have said it is difficult to get access to areas of
vegetation, particularly when only staying in town. We did a round the
island tour and visited Mele Cascades and a planned tripped to Pele Island
was cancelled due to lack of numbers. In the end I saw 26 species around
Efate which wasn?t too bad.
Santo is a much better option for bird-watching with all the endemics
present on this island. However, a number of these are only found above 500
metres and as this is difficult to access without a full expedition I didn?t
try and target these (though if anyone is looking at climbing Pic Santo in
the dry let me know and I will try and tag along). I tried for the five
lowland endemics, seeing four of the five and hearing the fifth. Tried for
most of these at Loru Conservation Area, but unfortunately this was the very
wet day and being a Sunday the local guide was less than enthusiastic and
very few birds were seen (birding in rain in rainforest is very difficult).
Vatthe Conservation Area is also a potential site but during the wet
requires 4WD for access which most of the tour organisers don?t have (small
vans are the preferred tour vehicle). Of the other targeted species I only
missed one altogether (Southern Shrikebill) though another was only
definitely heard, bringing the island total to 34 (plus two heard). This
made a total of 41 species for two weeks (including 21 new species), which
doesn?t sound huge, but considering I didn?t try for any seabirds (which are
remarkable for their absence near the shore) wasn?t a bad total.
I an addition saw at least four species of skink, lots of House Geckos, a
sea turtle off the wharf at Coral Quays, at least two species of fruit bat
(including one that feeds during the day), at least one insectivorous bat
(drinking in the pool) and many fish while snorkelling. I think I saw a road
kill Pacific Boa near Vila airport, but did see a few in captivity at Mele
Botanic Gardens.
On Santo I employed a guide (Glen Russel and his driver Enok) who was well
worth the money as he took me to the places I needed to go, negotiated entry
and at some places (Loru, Matevulu) organised a local guide to show me
around (where he would wait at the vehicle). He is also the man to talk to
about accessing the mountains and also knows some of the outer islands
(including the Banks and Torres groups). I used ?Birds of the Solomons,
Vanuatu and New Caledonia? by Doughty, Day and Plant as my field guide,
which was useful apart from the difficulty of not listing species
distribution for each island (for example Dark-brown Honeyeaters don?t
appear to occur far north of Efate but the map shows it on all islands). For
the list below I have used the taxonomy listed in ?The Howard and Moore
Complete Checklist of the Birds of the World? 3rd Edition, edited by
Dickinson. Some subspecies are guesses as it just lists North, Central and
South Vanuatu ? I assume that Efate is Central and Santo is North.

1. Vanuatu Megapode Megapodius layardi
The last of the endemics I managed to track down after much effort. After
the washout at Loru, on the last day we tried a number of locations before
successful. Firstly, I was shown an active mound near the ferry to Oyster
Island (where they also supposed to be present but the French owner wouldn?t
let us visit without buying lunch). We then travelled to rainforest near
Matevulu Blue Hole (near Fighter 1 airfield) where, with the local chief?s
son, I could hear one calling within about ten metres. Glen and then I
walked through coastal forest at Palikulo (Bomber 1) which is quite close to
Luganville. Glen saw one in pouring rain and then about 15 minutes later I
got a brief view of a bird before it disappeared into the scrub. Then as we
walked back along the road to the bus, three birds decided to start chasing
each other in the middle of the road offering clear views for about 30
seconds. In the bush reminded me of a slightly large Dusky Moorhen.
2. Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus
Plenty of chickens around the villages, but wild type Junglefowl (not
certain where they were introduced from) were seen at Loru and Matevulu
(making Megapode hunting difficult) and also heard at the rainforest patch
while looking for Chestnut-bellied Kingfisher (hereafter referred to as CBKF
Site).
3. Pacific Black Duck Anas superciliosa
An individual of race pelewensis flew over a paddock near Tunamu Bay on
Efate.
4. Pacific Reef Egret Egretta sacra
The same subspecies (sacra) that occurs in Australia was seen on both Efate
(Hideaway Island) and Santo (Luganville, Golden Beach and Palikulo). Most
were dark phase though one white phase was seen on each island as well.
5. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus
A single male was seen at Fighter 1 airstrip on Santo. The race present is
nesiotes, which appeared smaller and darker than the Australian race.
6. Swamp Harrier Circus approximans
One bird seen at Mele Golf Course (Efate) and a number (usually individuals)
seen on Santo (particularly south of Luganville and around Champagne Beach).
7. Buff-banded Rail Gallirallus philippensis
Race sethsmithi is very common on both Efate (around Vila, 4 seen on
Iririki) and Santo (particularly north of Fighter 1 airstrip, but also in
Luganville). Commonly seen ducking into roadside vegetation when driving on
rural roads, including juveniles.
8. Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva
Only seen on Efate where it was present at a number of grassy areas (near
Parliament House, White Sands Resort and Mele Golf Course. Many were in full
breeding plumage.
9. Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus
To birds of the race variegates flew past the Iririki ferry wharf on Efate
and seven birds at Palikulo were the last species added to the Santo list.
10. Greater Crested Tern Sterna bergii
Seven birds of the Australian race (cristata) were seen roosting near the
Hideaway Island ferry on Efate. Terns were also seen feeding distantly off
Sara River (eastern Efate) but without a telescope it was impossible to
determine their identity. It was a mystery why more terns and gulls were not
seen.
11. Rock Dove (Feral Pigeon) Columba livia
Not listed in Doughty et al. but about four individuals were regularly seen
around the markets in Luganville.
12. White-throated Pigeon Columba vitiensis
Unfortunately, a species that was only heard but not seen. An individual
(subspecies leopoldi) was feeding in a tree near Loru but flew before
getting a view. A bird seen flying across the road south of Loru may have
been this species, but the poor light did not conclusively eliminate Pacific
Imperial-pigeon.
13. Mackinlay?s Cuckoo-dove Macropygia mackinlayi
Individuals of the nominate subspecies (mackinlayi) were seen near Champagne
Beach (briefly) and near Loru. Also heard at the CBKF site.
14. Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica
The race sandwichensis is common on both Efate and Santo in both disturbed
and natural habitats.
15. Tanna Fruit Dove Ptilinopus tannensis
An endemic that once the call (which is poorly described in Doughty et al)
is learned proved to be relatively common on Santo. Harder to see, but two
were seen at Loru and a great view of one on Aore Island. Also heard at
Matevulu Blue Hole and at the CBKF site.
16. Red-bellied Fruit Dove Ptilinopus greyii
Common on both Efate and Santo, though it only appeared to be calling on the
latter island. First seen while eating breakfast on Iririki, it was present
in virtually all habitats with fruiting trees.
17. Pacific Imperial Pigeon Ducula pacifica
The nominate race (pacifica) was seen at three locations on Efate ? one flew
across the road near Eton, two were perched on the north coast and about a
dozen kept materialising in a tree on Mele Golf Course. Common on Santo
including Loru, Aore Island and at the CBKF site.
18. Rainbow Lorikeet Trichoglossus haematodus
I never thought I would be again be excited about seeing a Rainbow Lorikeet,
but the race massena is a corker. Much redder with a maroon cap, it has a
similar call to home. First seen on Iririki and common around Vila, it was
less often seen around Luganville but very common to the north around
Champagne Beach and Loru.
19. Barn Owl Tyto alba
A single road kill of the Australian race (delicatula) was seen south of
Fighter 1 airstrip was the only sighting. Probably reasonably easy to see in
the coconut plantations at night.
20. Glossy Swiftlet Collocalia esculenta
One of the most regularly seen species (along with the next species), first
seen on Iririki and in Luganville and then in virtually all habitats flying
to within ten centimetres of the ground. A beautiful little bird.
21. Uniform Swiftlet Aerodramus vanikorensis
Another common species, also first seen on Iririki and Luganville. Usually
flies higher than the previous species, often around rain clouds coming
through. In the occasional large flocks on both Efate and Santo, there
appeared to be the odd individual with a white rump, possibly White-rumped
Swiftlet (A. spodiopygius) which is apparently now very rare in Vanuatu.
However, as these were seen from a moving vehicle I was never able to
confirm whether this was the case or whether there were Glossy Swiftlets
mixed in the flock.
22. Chestnut-bellied Kingfisher Todiramphus farquhari
The only lowland endemic I didn?t see ? One called near Loru but as soon as
we entered the bush it stopped, two were present on a site on a now locked
off road behind Luganville (Glen saw them) but they disappeared into the
canopy before I could spy them Apparently present quite close to town it is
just a case of trying to see them in the forest. A reason to return to
Santo.
23. Collared Kingfisher Todiramphus chloris
Subspecies juliae was seen on Iririki and at a number of spots around Efate.
Subspecies santoensis which appeared to be slightly larger was very abundant
all around Santo. Both subspecies are much greener and smaller than
Australian birds, with an orange supercilium and a very different call. In
many ways they appeared closer to the Australian Sacred Kingfisher.
24. Dark-brown Honeyeater Lichmera incana
A poorly named species, very similar to, though larger than, the Brown
Honeyeater at home. The race griseoviridis was very conspicuous around
Iririki (where juveniles were seen) and Vila but not present at all on
Santo.
25. Cardinal Myzomela Myzomela cardinalis
Only seen Santo where it was abundant, particularly around Luganville. Only
one female and a juvenile male (similar to a Scarlet Honeyeater) were seen,
with all other sightings being of adult males. The subspecies tenuis is
amazing with the picture in Doughty et al. doing no justice to the red
colour, or the fact that this race has a black belly and chest.
26. Fan-tailed Gerygone Gerygone flavolateralis
The race correiae was more often heard than seen on Santo, with the call
definitely recognisable as a Gerygone. First seen at Wambu River south of
Luganville and also near Loru, but present in most patches of bush.
27. White-breasted Woodswallow Artamus leucorynchus
Common on Efate, where first seen on Iririki (with juveniles) and at various
points around the island. The subspecies tenuis was less often seen on Santo
though it was present around Luganville.
28. Melanesian Cuckoo-shrike Coracina caledonica
The race thilenii was surprisingly common being seen first near Coral Quays
Resort, then regularly around Fighter 1, Aore Island and at Palikulo. This
was a very strange looking bird (the locals call it ?Big Head?) with a
distinctive flight style, but still the characteristic Cuckoo-shrike wing
shuffle.
29. Long-tailed Triller Lalage leucopyga
Common in suburban Vila and Mele Golf Course, probably the same subspecies
(albilorus) was only seen near Aore Resort off Santo.
30. New Caledonia Whistler Pachycephala caledonica
Formerly considered part of the huge Golden Whistler (P. pectoralis)
complex, the subspecies present on Santo is intacta. Common in coastal
vegetation, the male is very similar to the Australian Golden Whistler; the
female is very different with a brown back, yellow underparts and white
throat. Doughty et al. unfortunately doesn?t show a female so apart from
call it may be difficult to identify as this species. First seen at Million
Dollar Point it was easy to squeak out of the dense bush where they
continually called (in some respects more like a Shrike-thrush than a
Whistler).
31. Grey Fantail Rhipidura albiscapa
The subspecies brenchleyi looked, sounded and behaved very similarly to Grey
Fantails at home. Common on Iririki (but not seen until the third day) and
around Efate, also common in gardens and the edge of bush on Santo.
32. Streaked Fantail Rhipidura spilodera
Subspecies spilodera was only seen on Santo where it was common in most
patches of undisturbed bush (Champagne Beach, Loru, Matevulu Blue Hole).
Only on Aore Island was it seen on the edge of the bush, it was usually in
groups of three or four, easily squeaked up and with a slightly slower call
than the commoner Grey Fantail.
33. Buff-bellied Monarch Neolalage banksiana
An endemic species that was easy to find in undisturbed bush including near
Champagne Beach, Loru, Matevulu Blue Hole and at the CBKF site.
34. Melanesian Flycatcher Myiagra caledonica
The subspecies marinae was common on both Efate (Iririki, east coast) and
Santo (Wambu River, Loru, Palikulo). Like a cross between a Broad-billed and
Leaden Flycatcher, with calls very similar to the latter species.
35. Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica
The subspecies subfusca was commonly seen around both Vila and Luganville,
usually perching on overhead powerlines.
36. Yellow-fronted White-eye Zosterops flavifrons
The easiest endemic to find, and the only one seen on Efate (subspecies
efatensis). Common on Iririki, it was often seen with the following species
and on Efate was equally as common. On Santo the subspecies brevicauda was
widespread but not as common, with the ratio at least 2:1 with the
Silver-eye.
37. Silver-eye Zosterops lateralis
Once again two subspecies were probably present (tropicus on Santo and
either vatensis or macmillani on Efate). Common in virtually all habitats on
both islands, and on Santo was by far the commonest White-eye.
38. Common Myna Acridotheres tristis
This introduced species was common in urban and rural areas on both Efate
and Santo, though possibly less conspicuous on the latter.
39. House Sparrow Passer domesticus
This introduced species was only seen in the middle of Port Vila.
40. Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild
Another introduced species seen only on Efate ? in Vila, near Eton and at
Mele Golf Course.
41. Blue-faced Parrotfinch Erythrura trichroa
After struggling to see this species on Mt. Lewis in far north Queensland,
it was very strange to see two flocks (totalling about 25 birds and
including juveniles) of the subspecies cyanofrons feeding on Mele Golf
Course on the fairways and in Casuarina trees.
42. Black-headed Munia Lonchura malacca
By far the commonest finch on Santo (contra Doughty et al.) this introduced
species was seen in Luganville and in roadside vegetation as far north as
Loru.
43. Chestnut-breasted Mannikin Lonchura castaneothorax
Another introduced species, only one was definitely seen, near the abattoir
south of Luganville. All other finches looked at on Santo were the previous
species, though the occasional flushed flock may have been this species.

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