I spent a couple of weeks on the Wallaby Track travelling from
Brisbane to Darwin in early August. The original intention was to go
via the Plenty Highway, but a rain event led to a re-route via the
Gulf of Carpentaria.
In summary
* Good road conditions through Windorah [lots of water beside the road
from Charleville to 40 km east of Windorah]. Not a lot of flow in
Cooper Ck near Windorah, but a lot of immature Night Herons roosting
in the trees near the bridge.
* As mentioned previously, large flocks of Flock Bronzewings around
the Birdsville - Diamantina Dev Rd junction, and large flocks of
budgies.
* Diamantina Dev Rd to Boulia generally in good condition [minor
damage due to a 10 road-train convoy moving stock after rain]. One
Letter-Wing Kite photographed 100 km north of Bedourie.
* A fair amount of bitumen on the road from the Barkly Highway to
Doomadgee. Dirt sections generally in good condition. Good birding
around the Gregory Downs roadhouse. Heaps of grey nomads camped
beside the river.
* Savannah Way heavily corrugated between Hells Gate and the NT
border. Driving discomfort offset by widespread flowing [lots of
trees and shrubs in flower].
* Calvert River crossing knee-deep and "smoother" on downstream side.
* Calvert Rd in relatively good condition and is little used [only saw
farm vehicles]. Pleasant scenery north of the extensively cleared
plains.
* Good camping at the Lookout west of Cape Crawford. Many finches and
honeyeaters come into drink from the rainwater tank.
* Made extensive use of McCrie & Watson's "Finding Birds in Darwin
Kakadu & the Top End".
* Gouldian Finches and a handy campsite on the Edith Falls Rd [5 km
from Hwy].
* Hooded Parrots around Pine Ck [nice lunch spot at the water garden].
* Road into Gumlom Falls in variable condition [frequently graded, but
quickly corrugated by heavy traffic]. Not too many mossies around the
campsite. Kiosk operator keeps records of grasswren sightings.
* Gunlom Falls still flowing in August due to extended wet season.
Climb to top of the falls best done around dawn [took about 8 mins,
sign to sign]. Most tourists stop at the pools at the top. Quiet
swimming conditions at the long pool further along.
* Good birding on the ridge tops above the falls [tortured landforms
complicate traverses and the search for grasswrens - fascinating to
see long conglomerate seams (an indication of extensive folding) - but
excellent rock scrambling if you pick the right route]. Conditions
reasonably pleasant up till 10 am. Sandstone Shrike-thrushes,
Chestnut-Quilled Rockpigeons, White-lined Honeyeaters and Banded Fruit-
Doves all present [plenty of fruiting and flowering trees]. Not a
squeak from the grasswrens [just Variagated Fairywrens]. Dingoes and
Goshawks both present in grasswren zone.
* Pleasant birding in the monsoon forest at the base of the Falls.
* Well laid out campsites and good birding at the Mardugal and Merl
campgrounds. However, mossies noisily present in thick clouds after
dark - my mossie net was covered by the blighters. Having bats
swooping a few cm above my nose was some compensation. Just about
every tree at Mardugal had green tree ants nesting in it - a challenge
for hanging up the mossie net. Partridge Pigeons at Merl.
* Ubirr Rock definitely has the best easily accessible scenery and it
is definitely a good sunset spot.
* Very tame Hooded Pittas in the monsoon forest opposite the Border
Store.
* Good birding around the Mamukala bird hide - worth doing the loop
walk to appreciate the extent of the wetland.
* Dipped on the Black Bittern at the Mary River Park, but plenty of
Barking Owls down from the cabins.
* Good birding behind the Darwin Hospital [plenty of finches but no
Yellow-rumped Mannikins]
* Chestnut Rail present at Buffalo Ck - had to go well downstream to
find it in the middle of the day. Boat ramp very busy after dawn.
* Rufous Owl in favourite tree at the Botanical Gardens [photographed
with prey].
* Very enjoyable listening to the Bush Thickknees and Orange-footed
Scrubfowl calling before dawn.
* Overall, conditions rather hot in the Top End [temps of 35C on some
days]. Possibly an early Build-up this year.
Regards, Laurie.
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