Bob,
See my answers interleaved below. Please note, I use Nikon gear, Ruth, my
wife, uses Canon. In my opinion, they are the only two brands worth looking
at, simply because the of the lenses you will need for birding.
Also check out http://www.dpreview.com/ for reviews of all cameras and
lenses - it is without doubt the most useful photographic review source on
the net.
All the best,
Paul Dodd
Docklands, Victoria
-----Original Message-----
From:
On Behalf Of Bob Cook
Sent: Monday, 8 December 2008 10:32 PM
To:
Subject: Digital SLR for bird photography - delete if no
interest!
Oh well, what the Hell! I will open the subject again.
Please quickly delete this message if you are not interested in cameras.
Also, please reply directly if you think any reply might "clog up" the list.
However, I think some others may be interested.
Obviously my major interest, from the point of getting best results for my
$$$'s, is bird and other wildlife photography, mostly land-based but also
occasional pelagic and occasional distant waders (they don't count as
land-based!). I am happy spend a bit more if it gives a significant
advantage. So you will understand what the key features will be, like
accurate focusing on small moving targets in poorer light, maintaining focus
on unidentified flying "objects", coping with light contrasts between
subject and background (I have never been able to get a good result with an
Egret more than 25 metres away against a dark background!), etc. I am sure
some of you can identify other key factors I should consider.
I would like to hear some opinions / advice on moving to Digital SLR
equipment that is better than entry level, but not professional level. I
guess that means that, at best prices, I might spend $2500 to $3000 for body
& single lens. The questions I have include:
* Opinion on Canon vs Nikon vs Olympus vs anything else in that
quality range. i.e. quality for $$$.
>>> Either Nikon or Canon. Price is comparable.
* Canon EOS40D vs EOS50D - why pay the extra few hundred $. I read
about the specification differences, but are they relevant to my needs?
>>> For Canon, I'd spend the small amount of extra money for the 50D.
* Nikon D80 vs D90 vs D300, same question.
>>> Absolutely no question - the D300 is a BRILLIANT camera. The 56 spot
autofocus tracking is the outstanding feature of this camera.
* Lenses: I understand that Canon IS L is going to give much better
results for the extra $$ and Nikkor VR is well worth the extra money over a
"standard" lens.
>>> As a keen amateur, you'll probably end up with the 400mm zoom - the
100-400mm IS L for Canon, or the 80-400mm VR for Nikon. As a user of both, I
reckon the Canon lens is marginally better than the Nikon. I say this as a
Nikon user (I have the 80-400mm VR). There is no doubt that the IS/VR is
essential (and works well).
* Zoom, say 70 - 300 or 55 - 200, vs fixed telephoto, say 200mm or
300mm (or more?). I understand the convenience & flexibility factors, but
what about the quality of results? Or is this really just a matter of the
lens quality overall?
>>> For birding 400mm is the shortest that you'd want. See my comments
above.
* And what about using 1.4 or 2 times attachable tele-converter. Do
these impair the results, or again just make sure you get a tele-converter
of matching quality?
>>> If you do use a teleconverter, spend the extra $ and get a REAL Canon or
Nikon, don't buy the third-party ones. We did a trip to Hong Kong using
Kenko teleconverters. All our shots were disappointingly soft - and that was
true for both Nikon and Canon.
* What about the value of larger aperture (and larger $) lens, say
f2.8 vs f4 / f5.6? Do other camera / lens features compensate for not
having the larger aperture in poorer light? Or is more always better, if you
can afford it?
>>> Oh yes. The faster lenses (larger apertures) are brilliant. These
usually are usually the domain of professionals though, because you'll pay
thousands for them. If you go this route, the 500mm IS/VR lens is a good
choice. Also this will work well with a teleconverter.
* What about the "Super-zooms", e.g. 18 - 200mm? Do they lose quality
of result at either extreme because they are trying to achieve too much?
>>> Don't bother. Good if you get one with the body, otherwise don't bother.
* What about "other manufacturer" lenses, e.g. Sigma? Do they give
comparable results for less $$$?
>>> You'd pay the same sort of money for a Sigma as you would for the camera
brand. Some photographers swear by them, others say stick to the camera
brand lenses. I prefer the camera brands.
* What about Image Stabilisation in the lens vs in the body? What
advantages of either and why? I believe IS lens is the better way to go.
>>> IS in the lens. However, I say that without ever having used IS in the
body of a DSLR.
* Do the mid-range lenses, with IS, really allow you to shoot at
distance at, say 1/8 sec and slower, without tripod or similar support?
>>> Yes. IS really does work.
* Opinion on buying from reputable supplier in the U.S., e.g. B&H. I
think this is OK and prices look about 10% to 20% better on current US$ vs
Aust Peso exchange rates.
>>> I have bought from both B&H and Adorama. Both are reputable. Both are
prompt and the staff are helpful.
I am not an expert, but want to develop my skills, knowledge and enjoyment
with equipment that will give me results that I will be happy with (does
that mean "compensates for my own shortcomings"???)
>>> Canon 50D + 100-400 IS or Nikon D300 + 80-400 VR. Either setup will
allow you to both develop your skills and will be perfectly usable once you
are "skilled up".
I also understand that location, preparation and patience are the best three
pieces of "equipment" to give the best results!
Thanks in anticipation for all contributions.
Bob Cook
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