Jack and I were primarily after White-throated Grasswren on our
week long driving trip from Nhulunbuy in the east of Arnhem Land
to the Stuart Hwy via the Central Arnhem 'Highway'; then flying
home via Darwin.
Jack finished the trip with 6 new birds taking him to 612 but despite
searching both new and old areas we dipped on the WTGW.
I know many people have been chasing the grasswren in recent yrs,
so I thought I'd report on what we did and some comments.
The east of Arnhem land (at least in the areas adjacent the track west)
has very little triodia. The escarpments , of course, are spectacular and
worth a look at regardless but I doubt that there is suitable habitat until
we reached the outskirts of Kakadu.
Excellent birding ,though ,included a large flock of Pictorella Mannikins
at S13 43 51 E134 15 30. Thousands of Banded Honeyeaters were
along the track pretty much anywhere where the Woolybutt was flowering.
Other common finches such as Masked and Long-tailed were easy to see
in mixed flocks in burnt ground (in particular)
Gouldians, although in low numbers, were found adjoining creeks with
good seeding grasses. They actually quite like feeding on recently burn't
scrub also (so it is worth checking bird movements at ground level when
driving
along). As we were after the grasswren, we didn't stop at every creek but
I am sure that there are would have been at numerous places further along
the track. 2 locations though were S13 46 21 E 134 13 13 and
S 14 07 58 E 133 51 51. No yellow-headeds (unfortunately!)
We did lots of other birding but spent 2 days at Gunlom. My 4th visit (my
2nd
was the only time that I have seen the grasswren a few yrs ago) proved to be
arduous
and quite disappointing really. White-lined Honeyeaters were more common
than previous visits but the Chestnut-quilled Rock-Pigeons and Sandstone
Shrike-thrushes were single figure totals over the 2 days. No Banded
Fruit-Pigeons.
Specifically chasing the grasswren, we followed the suggestions of BA
members,
old reports, and tried some new places....these included.....going 2 kms to
the
R at the top of the falls; heading across the plateau and up the higher
escarpment
and then around back to the campground but we did not even hear any
wrens.....
not even a Variegated!....We also followed the creek (which becomes the
South
Aligator River after the waterfall drop) upstream for 1.5km until the
triodia ran out.
We did this early on the second morning. probably 10 hrs all up
searching...at least
we got onto Carpentarian after 8hrs in May!
Our last camp was at Chinaman's Ck (W of Katherine)...woke up to 120 (yes
120)
Hooded Parrots feeding on more burn't out ground eating seeds of fried
plants.
The rubbish thrown around in that wonderful location is a disgrace though.
I am sure that the residents of Katherine use the area for partying and have
no respect
for the spot.....(travellers would not leave prams, clothes, pizza boxes
etc)
Lastly we met up with Biggles for 4 hrs....had a ball...best was the
recently returned
Rufous Owl at the Botanical Gardens (presumably the other on a
nest---hopefully!)
The so-called managers of this terrific little garden seem to want to chop
old trees down.
Numerous recently destroyed trees were still lying on the ground. The have a
wierd
looking replica of the owl on a fence, yet they seem hell-bent on making it
hard for
the owl. Apparently a male owl was found dead a while ago but the female
went
away and has brought back a new boyfriend....fingers crossed. A pair of
Barking
Owls were near the entrance also
Some comments
....I worry about the so-called environmental burning...there was literally
only tiny patches of truly large old growth triodia....all 4 trips have
resulted in there
being less suitable habitat for WTGW (but also numerous other species) I
know that this
a contentious issue with which NTers seem to be defensive about, but I don't
get it.
Denise may like to comment but surely in the pre-European era, most fires
were from
lighting strikes at the on-set of the wet season? ...surely not going into
the dry season (now)
I understand that Aboriginal burning for hunting purposes probably happened
all year.
Flying into Gove (Nhulunbuy) is easy enough from either Cairns or Darwin.
The drive out , however,is not for the faint-hearted and requires a permit
from the Northern
Land Council.
Bush camping is fantastic throughout the area and a brilliant highlight of
the trip.
The stars, the vino tinto and mellow woofing of the ever-present Barking
Owls
make it a sensational experience.
All the best and good luck to other WTGW seekers (I think you'll need it)
Cheers,
Bill
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