10/9/07- 11/9/07 Katherine to Kakadu
Stopped for lunch at the visitors centre at Katherine Gorge (barra and chips
again). Very busy as it was a weekend so we headed back to Katherine. Much
debate in the car as to our next destination, as I could hear Star Finches,
Pictorella Manikins and Purple-crowned Fairy Wrens calling me from south west
NT. Whilst parked under a tree in Katherine, a gang of Apostlebirds looked
menacing so we set off for Gunlom deciding that there weren’t enough waterfalls
in the south west.
Had to stop for a small party of Partridge Pigeons on the road into Gunlom.
Terror struck my heart when we reached Gunlom as it looked as though there was
no water tumbling over the escarpment and the campground was fairly busy. This
could be a short visit. Talking to the camp ground manager she said that
White-throated Grasswrens had not been seen for a while and that one couple
recently had spent ten days looking for them and failed.
Next morning we climbed the escarpment to find some lovely pools of water and
small but sufficient waterfalls at the top. Keen to find some cool birds I
headed up the valley between the two escarpments. I could hear the faint call
of wrens from the vegetation, so I sat on a rock until a male and female
Variegated Wren paused to observe the idiot making strange squeaking noises.
Climbed to the top of the second escarpment where a Black Wallaroo bounded
effortlessly across the boulders and lorikeets and friarbirds fought over
Eucalypt blossoms. Across on Escarpment No.1 a Sandstone Shrike-thrush sat
atop the highest rock and sang its heart out. The gully was relatively quiet
with no Fruit doves seen, but a White-lined Honeyeater broke the silence. As
the sun rose higher in the sky I started heading back to the creek feeling
sorry for myself as no rock pigeons or grasswrens were seen. Then about 20m
from where Jill was sitting under a tree a Chestnut-quilled Rock Pigeon clapped
as it flew onto a rock. Looking like a football inserted with a Chupa Chup, it
instantly became my favorite pigeon. Making the pigeon feel uneasy with my
giant eyes I decided to leave it be, to spend the hottest part of day by the
water with a common tree snake, a water goanna, an Azure Kingfisher, and of
course my lovely wife, Jill. A walk up the first escarpment in the afternoon
resulted in no sightings of Grasswrens, although I think one may have seen me
(does that count). I had to be content with my booty and plan to come back
another day. A night time walk around the plunge pool was interesting when a
Childrens Python crossed the track. What wasn’t interesting or fun was the
number of fat Cane Toads sitting on the track. Luckily I had brought my
football boots, as they made good practice. No owls but an Owlet Nightjar
caught the light as it flitted away in the nearby forest. The next morning a
Peregrine Falcon bid us goodbye and we set off for Cooinda.
11/9/07 - 12/9/07 Cooinda/ Yellow Waters Cruise, Ubirr Rock, Nourlangie Rock.
Tried of camping and not happy with cost of accommodation at Cooinda we booked
our early morning cruise and headed for Jabiru to compare the competition and
see Ubirr Rock at sunset. I thought Jill said 15km to Jabiru, it was 50. The
giant crocodile resort looked hungry but we weren’t about to feed it. The air
at Ubirr Rock was thick with nectar as the Melalucas pumped out their juices.
Little Corellas provided a soundscape as we listened to the rock art
interpretations and watched the sun disappear over the horizon (magnificent
place). Deciding that the accommodation wasn’t that bad after all we headed
back to Cooinda Lodge, spotting a few nightjars flying erratically in front of
the car.
Yellow waters cruise was fantastic. After knocking a few Germans off the
pontoon into the water (joke), we managed to get the front seat. Our Guide new
all the birds and kept away from the other boat. A total of 68 species were
seen from the boat including Brolga, Black-fronted and Red-kneed Dotterel,
Australian Pratincole and dozens of Nankeen Night Heron. A pair of
White-bellied Sea-eagles stood proudly above their nest and a dingo chased a
group of pigs trying to expose a piglet. On one of the small tributaries a
Little Kingfisher posed for the crowd less than 3 metres from the boat.
Unfortunately no Great-billed Heron, which apparently had been seen the day
before. The cruise is great, as the birds are conditioned to the attention and
barely raise an eye brow as you glide past. Oh yea, there were a few crocs as
well.
Spent the rest of morning around Cooinda including the boardwalk heading back
to the lodge via Home Billabong. Lots of Shinning Flycatchers and kingfishers
were a highlight. After lunch went south to do the Mardugal Billabong walk. A
pair of White-browed Robins entertained us along the track and a large whistler
that looked like it could have been a female White-breasted Whistler had a bath
in the shallows. I didn’t count it, as I wasn’t thinking that at the time;
instead I turned it into one later that night.
On to Nourlangie Rock for the afternoon. We joined a French couple who were
looking perplexed as Ranger Alex Downey explained the Aboriginal Moiety system
of skin groups, about who you can marry and how many mothers, fathers,
brothers, sisters and cousins you would have, which is many. Alex was great,
after the talk he showed us where the fruit doves were that morning. “See this
tree, there was one right there”. He did show us a nesting pair of
Black-tailed Treecreepers though and recited some wonderful poetry about rock
pigeons and lizards. Apparently rock pigeons have not been seen there in
numbers for many years. “Once upon a time you had to kick them out of the
way”. Walking the circuit one more time past the magnificent artwork, Jill
spotted a lone Banded Fruit-dove above our heads. Calls from White-lined
Honeyeaters echoed through the rock fissures.
Camped at Merl Campground that night with the spotlight honing in on a Northern
Ringtail Possum. One of the nicer campgrounds in Kakadu. Heard a
Channel-billed Cuckoo call in the early morning. The nearby Manngarree Walk
where pitta are seen sometimes was closed, but a large camp of Black Flying
Foxes could be seen from the carpark.
12/9/07 Mamukala Wetlands and Fogg Dam
Mamukala Wetlands was worth the stop, just for the shear numbers of birds in
one location. The horizon was painted with whistling ducks whilst Whiskered
and Gull-billed terns patrolled the swamp. First record of Black Duck for the
trip. Noticed quite a few Brush Cuckoos on the woodland track walk and saw a
single Curlew Sandpiper, Sharp-tailed Sandpipers and Aust Pratincole where the
track meets the water. Long tailed Finches and the various flycatchers were
also seen.
Stopped into Mary River Park thinking that maybe we could go on a cruise and
bag a great-billed heron. The park has been sold and the new owners are
looking at a new direction, such as fishing and functions.
Arrived at “Eden at Fogg Dam” in the afternoon after an intensely busy holiday.
Spent the afternoon around the dam, just enjoying the birds and reflecting on
the trip. Unfortunately though, the hunting season had just begun, so we had
to listen to gunshots from the nearby Harrison Dam at dusk. On the whole it was
a great place to finish up before we headed back to Darwin and was very
comfortable. In the morning I drove down to the Adelaide River Bridge hoping
to see whistlers. Leaving in the dark the mozzie spray was left behind. The
compound was locked and the mosquitos were trying to carry me away, so I sat in
the car and wondered why I was sitting in a dusty car park in the early morning
on my holidays. Just as I had given up hope, a male Mangrove Golden Whistler
in hot pursuit of another male flashed across my face.
13/9/07 Howard Springs and Darwin Botanical Gardens
Stopped at Howard Springs for a possible swim and a last chance for pitta.
Swimming wasn’t permitted due to the chance of ear infection and
gastroenteritis. It didn’t worry the fish though, including the massive
barramundi in the main pool who were happy to take handouts from the gathered
tourists. Just as the top end bird bible said Rainbow Pitta were seen at the
second wooden bridge and even stopped close by for a photo. Met a bird watcher
here that said they had seen Rufous Owl the previous day at the Botanical
Gardens.
After spending several hours in the Botanical Gardens straining my neck,
searching every suitable limb for the Rufous Owls I gave up and joined Jill for
a rest under a tree. One last look before we left and I located a handsome
pair of Barking Owls roosting near the Orchid house. Not Rufous, but still the
first time I had come into close contact with these beautiful birds.
cheers
mike
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