Hi again
Here's the second part of my trip report. I hope you enjoy it and find it
of some value
ACCOMMODATION
While generally being of a more basic standard than that offered on the more
well travelled routes the accommodation was adequate in most cases. Credit
Cards were seldom accepted in payment of accommodation. As a rule the
hospitality of the hosts was unsurpassed, more than making up for anything
that may have been lacking in luxury and mod cons. Accessibility as used
below refers to the degree of accessibility of the various establishments to
physically disabled birders. Advance booking is advisable if not essential
at all the places we stayed at. Some are in very remote areas and there are
no other accommodation facilities within, sometimes, a hundred kilometres or
more. Other places are not as remote, but are in very popular areas and can
easily be fully booked at times.
THE ARID GRASSLAND
SMITHFIELD HOUSE, Smithfield
Accommodation: 3 double bedrooms all en suite - one with shower and bath an
two with shower. Guests are accommodated on a Bed and Breakfast basis only.
e-mail:
website: None
snail mail: P O Box 36, Smithfield, 9966, South Africa
tel: +27 (0)51 683-0071
fax: +27 (0)51 683-0071
Hosts: When we visited Smithfield the host was Graeme Wedgewood who has
since left. The present owners are Anne and Geoff Montgomery.
Accessibility: With the minimum of effort this Guest House could be made
accessible to disabled birders although it is not completely so at present.
Birder friendliness: Anne and Geoff, the new owners, are, as Anne put it,
“interested in birds” (they had a place near Himeville in KZN where they had
Wattled Cranes breeding on the property) and are very keen to get birders to
visit Smithfield. They will also provide packed breakfast for early
birders.
Rare or difficult birds (Upper Case seen, others reputed to be in the area):
BLUE KORHAAN and probably Ludwig’s Bustard
Comments: This guest house is a wonderful old Victorian house set in large
gardens in the southern Free State town of Smithfield. Graeme was extremely
friendly and helpful as I’m sure Anne and Geoff will be. While we did not
go here for the birding potential of the area I have no hesitation in
recommending Smithfield House to any birders who happen to find themselves
in need of accommodation in this part of the world. They do not serve
dinner, but the Colony Room in town has a great table.
MARRICK GAME FARM, Kimberley
Accommodation: A guest house with 5 double rooms, 3 cottages sleeping 5,9
and 10 people each. Guests are accommodated on a self-catering to fully
catered basis.
e-mail:
website: http://www.marrick-safari.com
snail mail :. P O Box 2850, Kimberley, 8300
tel: +27 (0)53 833-7036
fax: +27 (0)53 833-7036
Hosts: Trevor and Hubré Datnow
Accessibility: Not accessible
Birder friendliness: Although professing a desire to encourage birders and
indeed offering a discount to birders (which we did not get) we did not find
the owners or staff particularly birder friendly.
Rare or difficult birds (Upper case seen, others reputed to be in the area):
LONG-TAILED and Kimberley Pipits and BRADFIELD'S SWIFT in Kimberley,
SHORT-CLAWED LARK in Vaalbos National Park, KORI BUSTARD also seen nearby
and Double-banded Coursers are reputed to be common on the farm but are in
the hunting area which was out of bounds to us at the time.
Comments: Marrick was one of the places that we were really looking forward
to staying at, but unfortunately was one of the big disappointments of the
trip. We stayed in the guest house - a lovely old house with much period
furniture, but rather dark and foreboding inside with a general impression
of being run down. While meals are available we opted for self-catering.
Both the stove (range) and the kitchen sink were full of dirty plates and
old food when we arrived and these were only removed sometime later. There
were no bedside lights in the room that Elize and I slept in. There were
hunters present on the farm and we got the distinct impression of being 2nd
class citizens in spite of an earlier e-mail from Trevor maintaining that he
particularly wanted to encourage visits by birders on the property and
despite the fact that the owners were aware that I take parties of birders
around the country. Despite the fact that we had booked well in advance
when it came to paying the bill an attempt was made to charge us the “new"
prices and the 10% discount offered to us originally was conveniently
forgotten. Perhaps it was a result of circumstances pertaining at the time,
but based on our experience I cannot recommend Marrick to birders as a place
to stay. The nearby Langberg Guest Farm is perhaps more expensive, but a
much more pleasant spot to stay in this important birding area in my
opinion.
THE KALAHARI SANDVELD
RUIMSIG GUEST FARM, Vanzylsrus
Accommodation: Can sleep up to 15 people in two guest houses. For the more
adventurous another 8-12 people can be accommodated at Dune Snooze, a
delightful rustic camp in the Kalahari dunes on the farm. Guests are
accommodated on a self-catering to fully catered basis.
e-mail: None
website: None
snail mail : P O Box 92, Vanzylsrus, 8467, South Africa
tel: +27 (0)53 781 0458
fax:+27 (0)53 781 0458
Hosts: At and Koenie van Eeden
Accessibility: Not accessible
Birder friendliness: Neither At or Koenie are birders, but both were very
friendly folk and are very keen to attract birders to Ruimsig.
Rare or difficult birds (Upper case seen, others reputed to be in the area):
RED-BILLED SPURFOWL (very localised in South Africa), BATELEUR (rare outside
of the Kgalagadi and Kruger National Parks), Burchell’s Courser, BURCHELL'S
SANDGROUSE (restricted distribution in South Africa), SOUTHERN PIED BABBLER
(in South Africa almost restricted to the extreme north-western areas),
FAWN-COLOURED LARK (common in the Kalahari, but rare elsewhere in South
Africa), Tinkling Cisticola and CRIMSON-BREASTED SHRIKE (similar
distribution to Southern Pied Babbler).
Comments: We opted for the Dune Snooze rustic camp with four ingeniously
designed “huts” somewhat reminiscent of a Sociable Weaver nest. The camp is
a really great idea for those with a relaxed schedule and a spirit of
adventure. The sand track to the camp is negotiable in a 4-wheel drive
vehicle or a VW Microbus driven with care. The camp is of necessity a
self-catering camp with plenty of camelthorn wood provided for some great
South African “braais” - barbecues to those not fortunate enough to live in
this wonderful country. The guest houses are situated on the “main”
Hotazel-Vanzylsrus road and while we did not stay there they certainly look
like quite pleasant spots for birders to stay. I have no hesitation in
recommending the farm as a great place for birders looking for some real
Kalahari atmosphere at affordable price - far more so than the South African
National Parks Board.
One small sour note was that, in spite of the Dune Snooze’s remoteness we
were visited by some rowdy, drunken louts on both nights that we were here.
Quite an unnerving experience for us South Africans and possibly even more
so for overseas visitors At could perhaps look at a lock or something on
the gate at the main road. This should deter unwanted intruders
sufficiently.
WINTON GUEST FARM, Dibeng
Accommodation: Can sleep 8 to 12 people (4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms plus 1
outside shower). Guests are accommodated on a self-catering to fully catered
basis.
e-mail:
website: http://www.guestfarm.co.za
snail mail: P O Box 78, Dibeng, 8463
tel: +27 (0)53 791 0516
fax: +27 (0)53 791 0516
Hosts: Koos and Susan van Zyl
Accessibility: Not accessible
Birder friendliness: Birding is advertised as one of the activities on the
farm. Koos drove us around the farm one morning showing us both the birds
and his farm of which he is intensely proud. He suggested a circular
birding
drive for us to follow through the Kalahari in the afternoon and took us out
again in the late afternoon/early evening to show us a present-day
phenomenon forecast by Siener van Rensburg, a sort of South African
Nostradamus, at around the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries.
Rare or difficult birds (Upper case seen, others reputed to be in the area):
RED-BILLED SPURFOWL (very localised in South Africa), BATELEUR (rare outside
of the Kgalagadi and Kruger National Parks), Burchell’s Courser, BURCHELL'S
SANDGROUSE (restricted distribution in South Africa), SOUTHERN PIED BABBLER
(in South Africa almost restricted to the extreme north-western areas) and
CRIMSON-BREASTED SHRIKE (similar distribution to Southern Pied Babbler).
Comments: The Accommodation is simple but adequate in this remote area.
Susan’s food, which is brought over each evening from the main house and
given the finishing touches in the guest house kitchen is good wholesome
farm cooking. Staying on a working Kalahari cattle farm is an experience in
itself. When this is combined with very affordable accommodation and food,
great hospitality, good birding with birds that are difficult to find
elsewhere in South Africa what else can a birder ask for. I heartily
recommend Winton Guest Farm to any birders visiting the South African
portion of the almost mythical Kalahari Desert.
VERGELEGEN GUEST HOUSE, Kakamas
Accommodation: Accommodation is in 10 double rooms all en suite, Guests
are accommodated on a Bed and Breakfast basis with the evening meal
available from the restaurant (closed on Sundays) on an a la carte basis.
e-mail:
website: www.augrabiesfalls.co.za
snail mail: PO Box 730, Kakamas, 8870.
tel: +27 (0)54 431-0976
fax: +27 (0)54 431-0759
Hosts: Niel and Anelma Steenekamp
Accessibility: None at present but could easily be modified.
Birder friendliness: Niel imparted lots of birding information, including a
bird check list, about the area that he has gleaned from other people, but
is not a birder himself.
Rare or difficult birds (Upper case seen, others reputed to be in the area):
ROSY-FACED LOVEBIRD (while a fairly common species in Namibia this species
has a very restricted range in South Africa) is the prize species here.
Other very
desirable possibilities include Black-eared Sparrow-Lark, Cinnamon-breasted
Warbler and Namaqua Warbler.
Comments: Vergelegen was very comfortable and pleasant, except for a very
loud, very excitable and rather inebriated yobbo watching rugby (some sort
of Australian ball game I believe) in the room next door to ours. The rooms
were all en suite and the food in the a la carte restaurant was pricey.
Alien Mallard Ducks share the ponds with Muscovy Ducks outside the reception
area. I’m afraid that the place, though pleasant enough, did not appeal to
my somewhat warped tastes. Be warned THE RESTAURANT IS CLOSED ON SUNDAYS.
In fairness Vergelegen does provide braai (barbecue) facilities to help
guests overcome this, but it does mean that you need to bring food in with
you. Niel very kindly got some meat for us from the local butcher on Sunday
morning as I was going out early in the morning before anything opened in
town. What can I say about Vergelegen - it’s a nice enough spot for a
stopover, but does not have any special ambience. It is also close enough
to the Augrabies Falls National Park for a day visit to this fascinating
area without having to endure the lousy accommodation in the “family
cottages” there.
Cheers
John McAllister
Beautiful Just Birding
Wakkerstroom
South Africa
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