When Michael and I set out for Kakadu NP Sunday morning, the weather was
clear, and I thought that this time I would get to see Dave Lindner at
the Buffalo Farm. But within a few kilometres the heavens opened up a
sign from the low in the Gulf of Carpentaria and water was lapping at the
edges of the Arnhem Highway. I thought we'd probably reach the turnoff,
but then have to turn back. But at least I could tell Dave next time we
spoke, that I had tried to get there.
However apart from a few small gullies and a few quickly draining puddles
about calf deep the dirt road was fine. Yet Sean, a friend who lives at
the farm had tried to get out just a few hours before we came and
couldn't - the water was too deep.
There were many Partridge Pigeons feeding in the herbs and grass on the
verges or just standing still. Varied Lorikeets were common streaking
overhead. A pair of Red-winged Parrots flew up the road in front of the
car and I heard the soft chuckles of Northern Rosella.
The Buffalo Farm supplies meat to many Aboriginal people in the area.
Buffalo meat is a low-fat, low cost addition to their diet. Dave runs
the farm on a smell of an oily rag. He used to get money to finance the
operation through one of the Aboriginal organisations or through the
Ranger Uranium Mine - I can't remember which - but that has since dried
up. Sean who runs a small tour operation to the place helps out. He
takes people into the area but like many people in the business has
little knowledge of the bush or birds and so Patsy, Dave's Aboriginal
wife helps out by talking to people about bush tucker. We thought I
could add another dimension through my birdwatching and other natural
history expertise.
Patsy whom I call 'daughter' took me aside and asked what Michael's
dreaming was. 'Nogadjok' I said., 'Pied Heron'. 'That mean I call him
Dad,' she said. If Michael had had White Cockatoo Dreaming he would be
her uncle.
The lavatory is like a little living-room with benches for sitting, and
and carvings propped on the benches. Weaving and framed photos hang from
the shade netting walls . Patsy told me that a really big Mandjurduurk
(olive python) is often between the lavatory and the kitchen (by reallyI
assume four metres),, I could imagine someone sitting here at night and
being confronted - it wouldn't worry me, but there's a lot of people
around who are terrified of snakes!
Patsy couldn't speak its name loud as this snake is her dreaming (same
with all my children). The all pervasive smell in the air was not from
the lavatory but from nearby buffalo skulls which were soaking. Patsy
said that a big croc from the billabong was often there at night and to
be careful if I used the loo. How big was big? About fourteen feet Dave
said. I told him it wasn't supposed to touch me as I had crocodile
dreaming. Of course I was joking, and Patsy laughed. We went down to
the billabong where Patsy picked some red fruit. I couldn't place the
plant at first. Turns out it's a Flacourtia species, not that common up
here in my experience. I showed her some other plants to eat she didn't
know about, namely native members of Commelineaceae.
Birdwatching in the area around the billabong was typical for this time
of year, good but not thrilling (for local birdwatchers anyway).
White-throated, Brown, Rufous-throated and Dusky honeyeaters were the
most common. Also Leaden Flycatcher, Varied Triller and Northern
Fantail. Little Bronze-cuckoo was calling somewhere way off in the
distance. They were mainly feeding on and around the golden orbs of
flowering 'Xanthostemon paradoxus', a tall dark-green leaved tree related
to eucalypts. Down by the water's edge were Shining and Restless
flycatchers, Azure and Sacred kingfishers. Outside the kitchen was a
resplendent male Red-backed Fairy-wren. He and his party hopped happily
over the assorted old fridges and tyres.
A pair of Barking Owls turned up at dusk to serenade us while we ate
dinner, a buffalo stew cooked by Patsy. We washed it down with a few
bottles of red while Northern Quolls snuffled around the place. Dave and
I swapped lots of stories about animals and people we knew.
Next morning we drove out on quads to have a look at the place where Sean
takes his tourists. Lot of water about and one of the lakes we drove
through smelt of crocodile. Probably a big boy too. Five birds of prey
- Whistling and Black kites, immature White-bellied Sea-eagle, Australian
Hobby and Black Falcon. Few ducks - only Radjah Shelduck, one Green
Pygmy-goose. Also some jacana and Magpie-geese. There will be more
birds in the dry season. However the plants were lovely. Big pink
native hibiscus (H. meriakensis), sky-blue commelinas, royal-blue
pompoms (Borreria sp.) and many butterflies. A male Common Eggfly flew
near Dave in the kitchen and I told him to watch out, that being
territorial they attack! Of course we all had a laugh about that!
Talking about attack - on the way out a big Western Brown slid across our
path and although it was clear of the road by the time we reached the
snake, it doubled back and lunged at us. Kive me a mulga snake any time!
Denise
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