Thanks Mitch. =C2=A0=C2=A0
I just wanted to say, You all have been a tremendous help in this. =C2=A0I =
ended up finishing the first pair tonight, and the only thing I'll now chan=
ge on further versions is the epoxy to the back of the capsule trick. =C2=
=A0 In my design, the capsules are set in rubber grommets with an inside di=
ameter hole slightly smaller then the capsule, but just the perfect size fo=
r a tight, waterproof seal. =C2=A0 These =C2=A0in turn fit perfectly for a =
waterproof seal inside 3" long 3/4" to 1/2" hose connectors(for bathroom pl=
umbing). =C2=A0 These connectors are a heavy dark grey PVC, and actually ma=
ke a more then decent looking mic housing. =C2=A0They are narrow at the rea=
r, and flare out at the front. =C2=A0The mic cable =C2=A0in turn is running=
through the hose connector, and then through a smaller rubber grommet I fo=
und that fit the back exit just as perfectly, and has a small diameter cent=
er hole that forms a tight water proof seal around the mic cable. =C2=A0 Th=
e grommets were tight enough
that no glue of any kind is needed on the front once the mic capsule is pu=
shed into place(expanding the grommet somewhat and acting as a locking devi=
ce) and at the rear, I did fill the area just behind the rubber grommet wit=
h a half inch or so of fast dry silicone rubber cement. =C2=A0 On the cable=
section in between the front and back, I placed two rings of closed cell f=
oam, cut to shape with center holes for the cable. =C2=A0This was simply to=
position the cable so it did =C2=A0not hit the inside of the housing, as w=
ell as add a small amount of handling noise dampening. =C2=A0All in all, a =
very simple design. =C2=A0After allowing the silicone to set up enough to b=
e able to handle, I tried them out tonight. =C2=A0 I have to say, I'm very =
happy with the results! =C2=A0I tested them on both an Olympus LS-7 and an =
LS-10. =C2=A0 Using an Olympus LS-10, they are FAR better, both in noise fl=
oor and gain, then the built in mics. =C2=A0The difference was amazingly ap=
parent. =C2=A0 I tested them both
outside(suburban environment) and in my apt. buildings hallway. =C2=A0 The=
thing about the hallway is that my Apt building has=C2=A0excellent=C2=A0no=
ise proofing in all walls, and that hallway is a virtual quiet room. =C2=A0=
=C2=A0Once both the main building doors are close, and the secondary fire =
doors closed, you cannot hear anything from either outside, or any of the a=
pts. =C2=A0 With the mics, I only started hearing any hiss/noise at 3/4 gai=
n on mic high. =C2=A0At no point on =C2=A0mic. low did I hear any noise at =
all...amazing. =C2=A0 Better yet, even on mic. low, I was able to hear soun=
ds from outside...something again you just cannot do normally. =C2=A0 With =
mic high, I may as well have been outside. =C2=A0 The gain..I've experience=
d before to a degree...but the lack of noise is so nice, these being my fir=
st even decent set of mics!
I should add that on the LS-7, the advantages over the built in mics are=C2=
=A0noticeably=C2=A0less, but still there. =C2=A0In those, the main advantag=
e seems to be a bit of additional gain. =C2=A0I was=C2=A0surprised=C2=A0giv=
en it's lower price(then the LS-10) but the internal mic's/preamps on the L=
S-7 are apparently much better then on the 10. =C2=A0 The flip side is that=
if pressed, I'd say there was a slight advantage to the external preamps o=
n the LS-10, and this backs up what is seen on the chart at Avisoft. =C2=A0=
Both recorders sounded very good with these though, and now I can't wait t=
o get the remaining set built, and try them on other recorders I have. =C2=
=A0 I'm really looking forward to seeing how they sound on the Sony HI-MD I=
have, as that already makes a very average set of =C2=A0mic's sound decent=
, so these should be really good(and yes...I know I need a battery box for =
that!).
Sorry for the run-on, but I was just very happy with the final results!
From: Mitch Hill <>
To:
Sent: Monday, May 7, 2012 11:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Nature Recordists] Removal of plastic coating from wires....
=C2=A0
On 5/7/2012 10:25 PM, Paul Willison wrote:
> a thought. Is it possible to use epoxy or other hard set glue on the b=
ack of a capsule, to "shore up" a soldered connection? It should not inte=
rfere with the signal, as thats got to be making contact anyway...but perha=
ps given the delicate nature of the wire connections on these things, I cou=
ld supplement them with a coating of super glue or epoxy of some kind? Th=
ere are no holes or anyplace on the back for it to leak into the capsule it=
self, and there is virtually no heat, so I can't see why that could not wor=
k?
>
Yes, there is a commercial product used for this purpose, it is Loc-Tite
444 wire Tacking Adhesive also sold as Tac-Pak...
However there is no reason why epoxy would not serve the same purpose or
possibly a drop of hot glue from a glue gun... Duco Cement is another
that comes to mind and the old standby, when nothing else is available,
a drop or two of clear fingernail polish...
--
--
Mitch Hill
(Sent from HP DV6T)
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