Hi Alan,
Simply put, I used woodworking methods. Having first established the
notch position I marked across the top with a small knife. I then marked
the depth with a small violin makers marking gauge. Holding the rail in
a bench vice I next cut the forward and rear extremities down to depth
with a small fine toothed hacksaw. Finally I used a one inch bevelled
chisel to pare down, first at forty five degrees each end down to depth,
and then removed the excess to complete. The drilling of the screw hole
is best done by cramping the suspension frame accurately in place (I
used a small model makers cramp) and using the hole in this as a guide.
This plastic works very easily with a sharp chisel. I should however
point out that I was trained as a joiner, and I therefore have the
necessary skills. Another method is obviously to mill it out if you have
the equipment; it would be quicker and simpler still.
If you have any other questions, mail me privately and I'll b e glad to hel=
p
Good luck!
Max
Alan K wrote:
> With what did you cut the new notch? I would like to do mine. Mine is
> new and I have not field tested it yet, but I can tell that the
> suspension is too "floppy" without the further separation. I do have
> both an ME66 and ME67 that I was planning to use (my blimp is the
> convertible model).
>
> --- In "Max Catterwell"
> <> wrote:
>
>> I have made the modification as mentioned below, and it HAS solved
>> the problem. For anyone not certain of what I did, I have posted a
>> picture in the Photos section, entitled Indian blimp mod.
>> Max
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> "While a picture is worth a thousand words, a
> sound is worth a thousand pictures." R. Murray Schafer via Bernie Krause
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