Hi David--
Perhaps something has changed in the manufacturing, but these
interchangeable capsules have been around for years. They're even
grouped as options:
http://www.shure.com/ProAudio/Products/WirelessMicrophones/us_pro_WL183_con=
tent
Dealers in the US also sell the capsules and cables at a wide range
of prices and in different packages so one has to know model
number(s) involved and refer to Shure's web site to confirm what one
is getting. It looks like we are witnessing the need for buyers
around the world to share dealer and customs info. Currently, the
best price I can find in the US is
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/WL183/ . A larger dealer, like
B&H in New York City, might ship internationally regularly. I could
use some education about these things too.
If the noise is frequently there, I'd go ahead, with patience, and
swap the capsules. It seems like you've narrowed it down to either
the cable or the capsule. Once you know that the noise is in the
cable, I'd try to locate (maybe with the help of other recordists in
that part of the world) a way to buy the C122 cable or cable/capsule
pair at more competitive pricing and order one. Then I'd try to open
the head and replace the whole length of wire altogether. Keep all
unshielded lengths of wire at bare minimum. The risk is always RFI,
Radio Frequency Interference. Like I wrote before, if you eliminate
the xrlm's and go right to 3.5mm stereo plug, your wiring job is
simpler,.. Rob D.
=3D =3D =3D =3D
At 8:57 PM +0800 6/13/06, Secomb's wrote:
>Hi Rob
>
>Unless my 183's are different, would hate to change them in the field.
>No troubles unscrewing them just hell of a long time. When I was 1st
>looking a 183's I asked the local distributor about buying the cartridge
>and cable separately. A C122 cable was over $200 and 6 weeks to ship
>out. The joys of living in Australia. When I do wiggle the cable most of
>the crackling appears to be in the middle section but unable to isolate
>the exact spot. What are the dangers of splicing?
>
>Thanks for your advise
>David
>
>Rob Danielson wrote:
>
>> At 12:37 PM +0800 6/11/06, Secomb's wrote:
>> >Rob. Thanks for replying
>> >The connections mentioned was the method you described from a TA F4 on=
to
>> >a cable that is attached to the minijack. I know this connection, the
>> >cable and minijack is fine, as the good mic works the same on both
>> >connections
>>
>> As Dan pointed out, you can unscrew the caps from the cables-- the
>> omni 183 capsules screw into the c122 cables. Try this is you haven't
>> already.
>>
>> > ( remember using a pair of mics). What I did do the other
>> >night was to take off the mic. clip
>> > from the mic cable which required a
>> >bit of effort. This may have broken a wire,
>>
>> Can you wiggle the cable and isolate a portion where the bad
>> connection is?
>>
>> > as this cable is rather
>> >thin. Should this be the case, I assume I replace the mic cable by
>> >cutting 2 or 3 inches from the mic ( this appears to be good and I hav=
e
>> >no way off opening the mic) and take it off the connection, soldering =
it
>> >on the new cable.
>>
>> Best not to have a splice. You can buy a new C122 cable
>> http://www.shure.com/ProAudio/Products/Accessories/us_pro_C122_content
>> <http://www.shure.com/ProAudio/Products/Accessories/us_pro_C122_content=
>
>> http://store.aiconsol.com/c122.html
>> <http://store.aiconsol.com/c122.html> (or try Sweetwater or B&H)
>>
>> or knowing that you can always buy a replacement cable, try
>> opening-up the old one to see if you can re-solder the cable
>> directly. Rob D.
>>
>> > Assuming there isn't a simpler way. Sorry for
>> >sounding basic but do prefer to ask first before hacking away.
>> >
>> >David
>> >
>>
> >
>>
>>
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>>
>
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>
>
>
>
>
>"Microphones are not ears,
>Loudspeakers are not birds,
>A listening room is not nature."
>Klas Strandberg
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
--
Rob Danielson
Peck School of the Arts
University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee
http://www.uwm.edu/~type/audio-art-tech-gallery/
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