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Re: Digest Number 1311

Subject: Re: Digest Number 1311
From: Walter Knapp <>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 21:29:25 -0500
>    From: "Daniel De Granville" <>
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> After a long time away from the internet, I'm kind of online now. I say
> "kind of", because the connection (dial-up) is extreeeemely sloooow.

I'm in permanent dial-up limbo, it's still possible to do things.

> 2) Which Cool Edit's filters have you guys been finding more
> successful on
> reducing background hiss without affecting the target sounds too much?
> I've
> tried some like "Noise Reduction", but maybe I'm not doing this right,
> because I seem to be affecting the main sound more than I wish. Can I
> find
> these
> kinds of tips on dealing with Cool Edit somewhere on the web?

Since I am mac it's hard to give Cool Edit specifics. But, you are
right, noise reduction filters can only be applied lightly, they won't
do the whole job. I use the noise reduction last after the other
filters. I usually start with filtering out or reducing some frequencies
first. Typically I choose a low cut filter, and maybe a high cut. Then
move on to filters in restricted frequency ranges. All while listening
and watching a sonogram. When I've got as good as I can that way I'll
activate the noise filter and apply it very carefully. The noise filter
I use is "trained" by sampling noise in some area not containing
anything I want.

I also have a dynamics filter I can use very sparingly to remove some of
the quietest sounds.

> 3) Does anyone know if there is a way around my Sony MD recorder's
> default
> setting of "Rec Level"? I prefer using "Manual", which means that I can
> change the rec level while recording, as opposed to "Auto". Problem is
> that,
> every time that I stop the recorder, the setting goes automatically
> back to
> "Auto", and then I have to scroll through the whole menu again in
> order to
> set it back to "Manual". A real pain in the ass and time consuming in
> some
> occasions.

Used to be that the direct into manual was to hold down the pause, push
and hold record for a few seconds and it would switch to manual and be
in pause on manual record. I used my Sony MZ-R30 only that way, easy!
Try and see if that still works.

Walt





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>From   Tue Mar  8 18:26:35 2005
Message: 12
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 21:29:46 -0500
From: Walter Knapp <>
Subject: Re: Kayaking with Hydrophones

From: Wild Sanctuary <>
>
> Sound travels about 5 x faster in water (approx. 1100ft/sec in air
> and 5000 ft/sec in water, depending on salinity and temperature),
> Charlie, and has very different transmission properties because of
> the density of the medium. Given our experience, my guess is that a
> three foot spread ain't gonna work very well. You'll need more.

Head spaced stereo setups, which is what we are talking about, have a
barrier to represent the meat in our head, without that they don't get
much stereo either. To duplicate that in hydrophones it would be
necessary to provide a barrier. I expect if a equivalent acoustic
barrier could be designed that they would work at the closer distance.
Not sure about the appropriate material, many barriers in air are not
barriers in water.

Otherwise you are duplicating spaced omni's with no barrier and the 10
meters sounds in the ballpark for duplicating those.

Walt




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________________________________________________________________________

>From   Tue Mar  8 18:26:35 2005
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 19:03:38 -0500
From: "J Young" <>
Subject: Re: Presenting sounds on the internet

Rick,
  Very nice job on your website, well thought out and simple to use. Congra=
t's.

J. Young




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