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RE: Galapagos/Rio Napo Ecuador trip summary

Subject: RE: Galapagos/Rio Napo Ecuador trip summary
From: "Martyn Stewart" <>
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 22:30:27 -0800
Have you been to these places before Bernie? I'm quite interested how the
biophony sounded before hand and the amount of damage that is evident over a
space of time, I for one cant get my hat on the amount of damage we as man
are doing to this planet, I can not picture roosters sounding off in a rain
forest! What the hell are we doing! For someone who is so passionate I bet
this hurts like hell?
You know, ever since I was a kid I dreamed about visiting the rain forests
of central America, being a horticulturist, it was always my dream to see
flora in its natural state, my love of all wildlife went hand in hand, I
remember when I was about 7 years of age, looking at a picture of a Dodo and
thinking, how can a species become wiped out like that, not one anywhere on
this planet? Now look at us 40 years on from there, I still have not visited
Amazonia and thousands of species have been wiped out along with the flora
to go with it!
All that will be left is Zoo's with buttons to press with "this was the
sound of a Puma" etc!
Sad for all.

I would love to hear some comparisons of your work down there mate.


Martyn
http://www.naturesound.org


From: Wild Sanctuary  
Sent: Friday, February 06, 2004 2:38 PM
To: 
Subject: [Nature Recordists] Galapagos/Rio Napo Ecuador trip summary

GALAPAGOS/ECUADOR RAINFOREST TRIP REPORT

SECURITY AND EQUIPMENT - before leaving, I made a list of all 
equipment in both English and Spanish and presented it to security 
and customs at each point. The equipment was broken down into its 
constituent parts and hand-carried in a small (8"x 10"x 16" or 3.2cm 
x 4cm x 6.4cm) in size. That included an M-S system with tripod, 
preamp, Rykote windscreen, batteries, 10m of cable; a pair of ECM55s, 
a hydrophone (w/ 10m cable) and miscellaneous connectors and wires 
and 12 DAT tapes. Result: not a single question or problem at any 
point in the trip.

GALAPAGOS -  Week 1. Wonderful but frustrating. The Ecuador National 
Park regulations specifies that every journey to any of the islands 
requires a licensed guide and that the trail markers are sacred. One 
is not allowed to leave the marked path. Since there are about 75,000 
visitors/year, none of whom are allowed to camp or visit sites 
unattended, they are hauled to each island by boats pulsed on 
schedule to arrive at every site. Visitors are then ferried to a 
beach or landing site (reminded me of the Normandy D-Day landing) and 
pulsed along the marked trails to see whatever can be seen. And 
there's lots to be seen but it's obviously difficult to record with 
so many folks clicking cameras and exclaiming at the wonders of a 
blue-footed booby or albatross or tortoise. Kat and I hired our own 
private guide to help mitigate the situation (who knows when we'd 
have a chance to return) and we were able to get away from the 
madding crowds at least for short (20 min) periods of time now and 
then. I also left earlier in the mornings than the visitors on our 
boat (and other boats) so that I had some quiet time to record. We 
discovered only too late that we could have got a permit to leave the 
trails and wander off (with a guide, of course) had we known in 
advance that that was possible. So in 7 days and nights, I got only a 
few short soundscapes amounting to a little over 4 hours of material 
of reasonable (but usable) quality where normally, I would have 
expected to get three times that much or more.

RIO NAPO - Week 2 - is an equatorial rainforest river on the eastern 
side of the Andes SE of Quito, Ecuador. A tributary to the Amazon and 
part of the Amazon Basin watershed, the Ecuadorian govt has run an 
oil pipeline along the river with pumping stations every 10 - 15 km. 
Also, the Quechua have been allotted land within former rainforest 
reserves, which they now farm. Slash and burn is the manner in which 
the forest is tamed and a thick layer of smoke hangs everywhere over 
the areas we visited along the river. At dawn, one hears roosters 
crowing instead of the four or five species of monkeys that once 
inhabited the place. Not one monkey sound was heard in the wild even 
though we were there for a week and I walked alone some 6 or 7 km 
into the forest late one afternoon with nothing by my recorder and a 
hammock. Reason: the mammals have been mostly poached and hunted out 
almost to extinction in that area. All ones hears are insects, a few 
birds (hunted, as well), and frogs. In two days of old growth forest 
hiking, not a single mammal (normally one would expect to see 
peccary, capybara, howler and other monkeys, puma, etc.)  was seen or 
heard where formerly there were many. I did manage to get some 
recordings, but the biophony is surely altered and everything sounds 
stressed to me.

A old shaman we visited asked one gal in our group (a noted healer) 
to do a ceremony for him in exchange for one he did for her. When she 
asked what pain he wished to be treated, he pointed to his heart and 
said (in Quechua) "My heart hurts."

Bernie Krause

Wild Sanctuary, Inc.
P. O. Box 536
Glen Ellen, California  95442-0536
Tel: (707) 996-6677
Fax: (707) 996-0280
http://www.wildsanctuary.com



"Microphones are not ears,
Loudspeakers are not birds,
A listening room is not nature."
Klas Strandberg 



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