--- In "Rich Peet" <>
wrote:
> Linked is the diagram as built.
> http://home.comcast.net/~richpeet/ccdiag.jpg
Thanks Rich. I reckon I can build that circuit. Might be harder to
find the appropriate thickness Plexiglass. I am sure I can find the
right caps in my junk box. Did you mount the 9V battery on the
plate. Can't tell from the photo - unless you are using a
cylindrical camera type battery. I especially like your graphic
representation of Jill - the female Jack!!
Thanks again.
Greg
>
> Other notes if you used this diagram.
> 1. This is a two lead Condenser microphone element. Modification
> would be needed for three wire.
> 2. This design is a PZM design in order to give an effect of a
higher
> quality mic element. This means that the mic diaphram each on a
> different side of the plexiglass needs to be mounted as close to
> flush with the surface as possible. Then the reflected sound
> pressure wave is summed to the direct pressure wave giving the
effect
> of a mic element with half the noise value. The size of the
> plexiglass determines the pitch of the sound that can be
reflected. a
> surface can only reflect the pitch equal or longer than the size
of a
> 1/2 wavelength in space. 8"x11" should be considered a minimum
size.=20
> I like the rectangular shape so that the gain drop off is not an
> abrupt shelf.
> 3. If you want to put capacitors in the signal path because you
don't
> know if your preamp has them I recommend 2 - 4 uf tantilum or
metal
> film caps.
> 4. A .01 uf ceramic could be placed across the power supply
> electrolytic to give additional rf interfierence protection. I
just
> didn't nor did I see a problem when tested near radio towers.
> 5. A nut the size for a mic stand could be epoxied to the bottom
of
> the plexiglass to supply a mic stand mount. Just have not gotten
> around to it.
> 6. To mount components within the plexiglass simply use a drill
and
> then fill in the remaining hole with clear epoxy.
> 7. I did not have a small etching tool to cut a channel for the
wires
> to the capsules and then flood with epoxy and that is why there
> currently is the piece of electrical tape. This should be
corrected.
>
> I hope someone finds value in this as it really does perform
beyond
> what the cost is. This prototype is now with a new recordist
trying
> it out near his deer hunting stand at a rut site for the next few
> weeks.
>
> Rich Peet
>
> --- In "Greg Winterflood"
> <> wrote:
> > --- In "Rich Peet"
> <>
> > wrote:
> > > I have not posted a cost saving design lately so I thought I
> would.
> > > I still sandbagged a few more for some other time. I have not
> > > stopped building.
> > >
> > > But here is a great project under $15.00 if you can find the
> > > plexiglass. Most of the electronics were mounted and epoxied
> > within
> > > the sheet to make the whole assembly field worthy under any
> > > conditions. Windscreen not shown but is based on a small foam
> > ball
> > > cut in half.
> > >
> > > This new design is as simple as I could make it.
> > > Photos taken before epoxy seal of all parts and electronics.
> >=20
> >
> > Rich
> >
> > That looks and sounds great. Any chance of a 'mud map' circuit
> > diagram?
> >
> > We have stores here called "Tandy" which are some kind of
> RadioShack
> > off-shoot; but can't guarantee equivalency of product parts.
> >
> > Can you tell me how to aim the finished product? Side on, or
face
> > on??
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Greg
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