I was one of about 50 passengers on the Heritage Expeditions (NZ) expedition
on the "Spirit of Enderby" ("Professor Khromov") from Anadyr to Wrangel
Island and return, both places being in the Chukotka Autonomous Region of
Russia, from 4-18 August, 2009. I had travelled on a similar voyage in this
vessel about two years ago from Kamchatka to Sakhalin and enjoyed it so much
that I wanted more. The weather was relatively warm and dry, there was no
sea sickness and the onshore visits and lectures from the Heritage
scientific staff were excellent. Whereas Wrangel Island used to be
half-surrounded by permanent ice, because of global warming we saw no sea
ice at all.
I knew that there would be fewer new bird species for me on this voyage
partly because I had seen many in 2007 and partly because it was later in
summer, but I wanted to see some of the Arctic animals. In the event, I saw
50 bird species, seven being new for me. Highlights were Snowy Owls on
Wrangel Island, Emperor Goose, King Eider (but not Spectacled or Steller's),
Sabine's Gull, Kittlitz's Murrelet, Least Auklet and Snow Bunting. We met a
lonely ornithologist on the northern coast who had been there since May to
study Spoon-billed Sandpipers which breed in the area. He said that 4 years
ago there were 80, two years ago 40, and this year he saw none.
The animals were spectacular. We saw about 15 Polar Bears on Wrangel
Island, lots of Walrus, about 40 Belugas in Anadyr Harbour, Musk Oxen,
Orcas, whales and Arctic Fox. Because of the melting of the permanent ice,
the Wrangel Island Polar Bears are in real trouble.
The trip will be repeated by Heritage Expeditions next year, twice, but this
time using Nome in Alaska as a base, which will considerably reduce the
overall cost by eliminating the charter flights from Nome to Anadyr and
return, or the need to get to Anadyr via Moscow for us antipodeans.
Please contact me directly if you require further information or bird/animal
lists.
Regards,
Gil Langfield
Melbourne, Australia
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www.birding-aus.org
birding-aus.blogspot.com
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