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Cape York trip report

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Subject: Cape York trip report
From: Dan Blunt <>
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2008 00:18:34 +1000
Hi All

I've posted the general diary which focuses on the key species plus a few others. I am happy to provide comment if emailed. In general it is all well worth it. I dipped on a few species but that's birding! After all it was a family trip
Cheers
Dan

3/8/08

Departed late from Cairns, - 9:30am and headed up the Via Kuranda/Mareeba . Had a brief stop at mount Carbine and continued on to Lakeland Downs. Arrived at 12:30pm and had an hours break while the kids did a bit of running around. Had a coffee  as it was probably the last real coffee except for the plungers along the way which would be our own.  Headed straight to Lake field and got one stone chip from idiots approaching to quickly. Pays to slow down and let then pass. Not an issue to travel quickly  excepts when passing or being passed.  Arrived at Hann River Crossing about 4:15 and set up camp. Great spot with few people and good river. Good variety of wildlife with several frogs calling and a bit of water in the form of dams nearby.

 

4/08/08

The kids were keen to get up early but for birding it was just to dark so waited. When it eventuated the kids came along and we saw a few species including kingfishers and ibis so nothing exciting but a few tracks in the sand added to the adventure including dingo.

We had breakky and departed about 10:30am and did the red and white lily lagoon circuit via Melaleuca camp ground. Just before melaleuca turnoff we lured for barra and got three catfish. Just prior to this lagoon was a wetlands that had Pied heron and Green pygmy geese along with alot of other  common species. Red and White Lily lagoons were very overgrown and didn’t offer much except a Swamp harrier. We drove back to the Hann R crossing and had a lazy arvo, except for entertaining the kids. A croc took the yabby pot the night before so we need to come up with another method of catching them.

5/08/08

Packed up camp by 9:30 and stopped at the dunnies  on the main road before heading north. We realised the causeway of the Hann River would have been good too have a dip as there were lots of shallow pools so there were no crocs present, however we continued on. We stopped in at Low Lake which was 3km off the main road and was worth a visit. We saw many species, including Green Pygmy Geese, Wandering and Plumed Whistling Ducks, Jacanans, Brown Goshawk, and numerous other water birds. Beyond that it was one of those special scenic spots. We crossed Nifold plains which had some good photo opportunities of magnetic termite mounds scattered over the landscape. Exiting the plains there was great spot for a cuppa by the billabong. Black-throated Finch was present in the trees next to the lagoon where lots of Archer fish hitting the surface. We had a lure but caught nothing. Added Sacred Kingfisher to the list. There were several other common species in the trees but nothing to note. Along the way to Coen we saw a pair of Black-breasted Buzzards. We decided to stop for a break at Coen where there was a Land Council Meeting at the vistor Centre. We had a pot at the Sexchange Hotel which was quiet to say the least. Had a yarn to one of the locals who was very ‘chattable’. About 2pm we were just north at the Bend for a lunch break. A great spot to camp and the kids had a swim. We had decided to push on to Archer River Roadhouse for the amenities and a shortened following days trip. Not much bird activity but was good not to unpack a heap of gear so to make it easy the next day. Met Sean Seniger’s dad (a school mate) and he gave us advice about the tip. Had a ‘quiet one’ and hit the sack early. Food was adequate and reasonably priced for a remote location. The road was great all the way and posed no problems, even to a 2wd (if you were driving one) but that may change?

 

6/8/08

A short bird walk in the morning was rewarded with nothing and in general the wildlife was ordinary. There was an Agile Wallaby in the field adjacent but that was about it. I discovered that the river had some great areas to camp and with that it is possible to camp on the river bed and still wander up for showers and a feed if you require.

We left at 9:00am and drove straight to Iron Range. We stopped along the way and removed a Black-headed python along the way. The road was good and we arrived at around 12:30pm. After registering we went to set up camp at Cooks Hut but discovered a great area at the end of the rainforest camp site area. It was right on the creek so was handy to have the water. Cooks Hut requires a short walk to get water.  There were a few birders at Cooks Hut as expected. If the end campsite at Rainforest area is free then I would recommend it. It is only several hundred metres to walk to Cooks Hut anyway.

After setting camp we had a short bird walk while our friends minded the kids. We picked up White-faced Robin (common in forest) and Eclectus Parrot but only flying overhead. We walked to the main road and towards Cooks Hut. We saw Green-backed Honeyeater, Fairy Gerygone with lots of Magnificent Riflebirds calling. Many other common species were present such as Emerald Dove, Brown Pigeon, Rufous Fantail etc. We met some other birders and while chatting got glimpses of a Palm Cockatoo. On the way back into camp we saw the Magnificent Riflebird calling from a perch just to the left of the walking track which veers off to the left and crosses the creek (Old Coen Road walking track). He looked well at home in his cleared area which was well lit. There are many of these birds calling and I expect that this small light patch is well fancied by this particular bird. Great views of 10 minutes were easy and after he left he returned later so no doubt a regular spot within 100m of the campsite. In the canopy there was a raucous of Red-cheeked Parrots which swirled around but couldn’t get a clear look at them. Also in the tree tops were Tawny-breasted Honeyeaters at a flowering  tree. I also saw Shining flycatchers in the creek next to the campsite. I returned to the main road for a short stroll and heard the Northern Scrub-robin on the other side of the road about 100m in but as it was about 5:30pm decided it was not wise to head off on my own into the bush.

 

Later that night we had dinner and went for a spotlight. Got an immature Spotted Cuscus on the main road. Didn’t see or hear any birds so hit the sack by 9:30pm, falling asleep the chorus of Rana daemeli (Austalian Bullfrog) in the creek.

 

7/08/08

Started birding at about 7am and decided to go for the Northern Scrub Robin. I was in luck hearing it at the junction to the rainforest campground and spent about 15min in the forest on the opposite side of the road and finally saw a pair after a long following chase. There were 2 Noisy pittas on the road in to the campsite. Joined the family for breakfast with the then wandered toward Cooks Hut and had a look around there. On the way saw Yellow-legged Flycatcher. I spoke to a couple of other birders and they pointed out a Red-cheeked Parrot building a nest on the other side of the road of the northern entrance to the campsite on the opposite side of the road. Great views and pics. I walked on a bit further to a small clearing on the left of the road where the Eclectus Parrots were nesting but they weren’t there. They are commonly seen flying overhead but still hadn’t had a good look.  Not phased as I had a few days left I wandered on but didn’t get much else. My crew picked me up along the way and we headed to Chilli Beach and saw John Young on the side of the road having a yarn. On the way saw the biggest Blue-tongue Lizard any off us had ever seen. At Chilli Beach there wasn’t a Palm Cockatoo in sight despite reports so would have to go back again. The kids had a great time there and we threw a line for a bit. Chilli Beach is a beautiful place and well recommended for the scenery but can be windy. The campsites can be quite sheltered despite the wind depending which on you choose. All of us then headed to Portland Roads for a look and we caught some bait to fish the next day. Not a bad spot for a dip to clean off. While there Klaus Urchart from Kirrima Wildlife Tours passed through. We headed back to camp by 3pm and later had another walk and picked up Frill-necked Monarch not far from the campsite in amongst a group of small birds. Included was Lovely Fairy-wren, Spectacled Monarch and Yellow-breasted Boatbill. I saw glimpses of Trumpet Manucodes. I was informed that one was displaying in the big tree at Cooks Hut the afternoon before.  A short nightwalk later picked up nothing!

 

8/08/08

Had a short walk in the morning but was quite windy and the birding was terrible. Went to the rainforest campground and saw John Young there. They were in the forest whistling up the  Northern Scrub robin (tape or CD) while I whistled it up on the camp site side. Got good views while they waited a 50m away. A couple Jason and I entertained the kids in the morning while the girls did the Old Coen road walking track. They reported that the male Eclectus Parrot was at the smugglers tree about 800m in to the walk. A fig parrot was also nesting in the same tree. We visited Lockhart River and gained permission to visit the lake near the farm which is on the road which is a T-junction to the right before the town and dump. After the causeway past the mangoes a road goes left. The track splits immediately and the dam is on the right hand raod. We had heard reports of Spotted Whistling Duck there. On arrival the ducks were amongst the Melaleuca. I saw them in flight but not enough to identify them from regular whistling ducks although the call was different and they had been seen there but decided not to tick them.

Later in the afternoon we went to Portland Roads for a fish and managed Palm Cockatoo along then way. For sightings at Chilli Beach it seems every site must be checked out as the birds can often be down low. Caught a Trevally which formed part of the dinner. Despite comments about Trevally in general it wasn’t to bad.

The Olympics have started but probably wouldn’t listen to them anyway.

 

9/08/08

The weather was dismal in the morning so it upset the plan to spend time in the morning to go for the Fawn-breasted Bowerbird that had been reported by several birders at the Cape Weymouth/Chilli Beach Turnoff. That’s the one after the Portland Roads/Chilli Beach intersection. We decided to pack camp due to the crap weather and everything getting slowly wet but I went for the FB Bowerbird anyway but dipped. Went back to camp then assisted with the pack-up, leaving about 10:00am. Jodie and Jason went into Lockhart River while I went for the Spotted Whistling Duck again but also dipped. We headed toward Moreton Telegraph Station via Frenchmans Track which was very rutted (be  careful at the Pascoe River). It took about 3 Hours including a lunch stop at the Wenlock. The Pascoe River was the worst crossing with steep entry/exit, alot of erosion and reasonably deep considering we had a hire car! No dramas and we all crossed easily in the end with a few bumps underneath over the course of the track. The Pascoe has a big rock half way across so worth checking out to go around it. Didn’t see much wildlife along the track but lifted a log at the Wenlock and got Stony River Frog and a small Crinia looking species which was most likely Crinia remota. Arrived at Moreton Telegraph station about 3:15pm.  Kids were able to run around a bit to burnoff some energy. Not many birds around in the afternoon but started a list. Jason got hit luring for Barra at the Barra hole but didn’t see it although we were advised they weren’t to big in there anyway. The hot showers were great and we cleaned up and all the tents dried out from the wet morning. I went spotting for Cus Cus but no luck.

10/08/08

Jason got up early and went for a fish at ‘Barra Hole’. He had a couple of strikes but didn’t pull one in. Wendy and I did some birding and got great looks at Palm Cockatoo only 5m away when we exited from the creek walk. There were plenty around. I had been told there were fawn-breasted Bowerbird around but we only saw Great Bowerbird.  There is a bower located near the dam which was dry at the time. The bower is to the right of the dam (more like a depression). Looked like a Great Bowerbirds bower. Other species included Rainbow Bee-eaters, Lemon-bellied Flycatchers and White-bellied Cuckoo Shrikes. We left there and headed up the telegraph Track from Bramwell Junction ( last chance for a pie). Took about 3 hours with stops to get to the main road again. We travelled on to Gunshot where there were a few people standing around waiting for cars to do gunshot or rather just wasting time. We took the easy route about 5m to the right of gunshot then travelled to Cockatoo Creek. Cockatoo creek was the pick of the spots with a track to the left going to a campsite and a walk down the bank leading to the river. Good for a camp but we only had lunch there. Looked like good swimming. It was a late lunch so we went straight on to Elliot Falls. The camp ground was ordinary so we drove a bit further to Canal Creek and got a good site. Water was clear and a good temperature for swimming. Not much wildlife around but heard Rana daemeli and Crinia remota. Bird life is thin but will investigate further tomorrow when we visit the local waterfall attractions.

11/08/08

A lazy start to the day but on investigation of a call I was not familiar with revealed White-streaked Honeyeater. Once the call is recognised they were common in the area. We visited Fruit bat and Eliot Falls and enjoyed a swain at Fruit Bat but decided to lunch it back at the camp at Canal Creek because of convenience. Fruit Bat falls was a good swimming area and once again the ‘purpelensis’ Brush Turkey  was present along with Black Butcherbird. In the afternoon we spent time swimming and entertaining the kids, while people driving across to head north on the track entertained us. Despite an easy crossing to the left many did not check the creek and took the hard road with several large bangs during the day while others did alot better. Serves reason to check all options before crossing any creeks. Palm Cockatoos were around in the arvo, Leaden Flycather and Grey -Shrike Thrush were present amongst various honeyeaters in the afternoon. Went spotlighting  for frogs and confirmed Crinia remota. Rana daemeli was also present and has been common throughout the trip. Saw a cryptoblephalus sp.  And another skink I couldn’t catch during the day to confirm what it was. Pitcher plants were a good focus of study in the afternoon along with Lobelias, Banksias, Achronicias, Violets and other species not so common. Genus’s are recognisable but not so sure on species but all good fun.

 

12/08/08

Departed Canal Creek at around 9:401m and headed north along the telegraph track. Turned off toward the highway at Mistake Creek as reports of the far northern section were not good and the creek crossing would not be pleasant. Apparently several cars has been swamped. It was only about an hour to Bamaga. We called in at Injinoo to see Dale who we knew but he was busy. We checked the Umagico camping area which he had recommended and it was great. We had power and amenities for $7 a campsite per night.  We checked out Seisia later and used the laundry at the camp ground to do washing. We were glad we didn’t stay there as it was packed. By the time a few chores etc were done we went about feeding the kids etc. Although Umagico didn’t have the cleanest amenities, it has one toilet and a shower that were good enough so we were happy to be only the second lot of campers having the beach to ourselves. We fished at night and caught a Barracuda and a Ramora.

 

13/08/08

After breakky we headed for the tip. Weather was overcast and windy as it has been for a while. Enjoyed the drive and was there in about an hour. Parked at the old Pajinka site which was totally run down and abandon. The tip was good and saw Brown Booby, Greater and Frigatebird cruising over the ocean. Stopped to see Mr. Pig at Lockerbie Station on the way back and bought some postcards. No food available so went shopping at Bamaga and went back to the campsite for lunch. Lockerbie Scrub looked good so we plan to head back there. Relaxed and spent time with the kids in the afternoon. Fished at night and caught a Black-tipped Reef Shark. A few other things got away however Jason managed a Blue Swimmer Crab.

 

14/08/08

Went for a drove early to see what species we could locate in the Lockerbie Scrub. A great place but couldn’t manage anything new. We walked randomly chose areas to bird and did part of the Roma Flats walk. The weather has been exceptionally windy adding to the difficulty in locating species. We saw Palm Cockatoo, Frilled-necked Monarch, Shining Flycatcher, Spectacled Monarch, Magnificent Riflebird, Trumpet Manucode (glimpse), Tawny-breasted Honeyeater, Little Shrike-thrush and a range of other rainforest species. On the way back to camp we checked out the sewage ponds at Bamaga which are on the left of the on the Seisia Road. Only Grey Teal and Australasian Grebe Present. Went back to camp for smoko-lunch and took the kids to the WWII plane wrecks. Only two of them are worth seeing. The DC3 is on the corner of the main road and the Cairns turnoff north of the airport. As you drive toward the airstrip past the Cairns turnoff it is on the right. A dirt road leads to it. The Beafourt Bomber is on a track that is on the left when the airfield comes into view. Follow it through the old gate. There are lots of old drums etc from the war left there. Arrows will indicate the direction. It is about 2km or so from the turnoff and is adjacent to the current airstrip. Didn’t see any birds of interest. A walk along the beach in the arvo noted several Brown Boobies just offshore.

15/08/08

Jason booked a boat to go fishing so went along. Before leaving Camp we had six Palm Cockatoos above our tents and we got some good photos. They were eating seeds from the Bloodwoods which are common in the campground. This was a real bonus. We fished the Jackey JAckey and had reasonable success with Threadfin Salmon, Grunter and Golden travally as well as seeing a 3m Croc. Calls from the mangroves were great but the weather was dismal. Still windy (25kn) with light showers. Saw Greater Frigatebird, Lesser Crested Tern, Grey-tailed tattler and Whimbrel. Cooked up the fish for dinner when we got back.

16/08/08

A day of moving so packed up and headed for Weipa. Had a brief stop at Bramwell Station where got some good pics of Black-backed Butcherbird. They have a few residents here and are not shy in the least. After the Batavia Downs Road where the road rejoins the Weipa Road I added Australian Pratincole for the list. Briefly stopped at Myall Creek on the way into Weipa. The creek was dry and dusty with not much activity. As we passed the settling ponds ducks were present so will cjeck in detail tomorrow for Spotted Whistling Duck. Ate dinner at the Albatross but not the restaurant. The pub meals were well priced and quite good. Stayed in a cabin at the Weipa Camp ground which was average for $120p/n.

17/ 08/08

 Departed Weipa about 8:30am and picked up a few species on the sand flats in front of the park. Extras included Common Greenshank, BW Stilt, Gull-billed Tern (macrotarsus) and Striated Heron. ON the way out stopped at the settling ponds with only a few hardheads, Aust Grebe, Rajah Shelduck and Golden-headed Cistcola present. The Pratincole were present again near the bitumen.  On the Development Road got great pics of a Spotted Harrier. Motored south,stopping briefly at Archer River Crossing and bought some bread and milk ($4.80 a litre –what a bargain) but Weipa was closed because of Sunday) before heading into Mungkan Kanju.  Camped at Old Archer Crossing which was great. Shallow swimming for the kids and surrounding lagoons better than Lakefield but yet to explore. Spotted Cus Cus were present. Birds in the afternoon included DB Finch, Red-browed Finch (northern race) and Papuan Frogmouth. More exploring to do as many honeyeaters are seen flitting around. 

18/08/08

Walked early in the morning  along the river, and with surprise turned up Trumpet Manucode. There seems to be alot of species here that are associated with wetter areas and that is probably due to   high quality riparian forest. Explored a few of the closer lagoons in the morning and did another birdwalk in the afternoon. Noted Grey Whistler amongst a variey of others. In general the birdwatching is good morning and afternoon.

19/08/08

Took a general break from touring and did activities around the camp. Lured along the banks and caught a few sooty grunter which were great for  lunch. Caught a few Freshwater Prawns  in the afternoon which were eaten for dinner and very good. Added masked Lapwing to the local list.

20/08/08

Packed  up and moved camp to Laura. No time for birding. When we camped at the pub grounds at Laura.  Black-backed Butcher bird was present. The pub was obviously struggling with staff. The German sheila at the till couldn’t operate it and they also stuffed up the meals. Good size though. Very noisy during the night with a few people rolling out of there bar late.

 

21/08/08

The final group morning. Still windy and birding not good. Lots of Red-winged Parrots around. We headed for Cooktown via Battlecamp and stopped at Horseshoe Lagoon. Lots of Jacanas and a few Green-pygmy Geese. On the track in were Black-throated Finch, Fan-tailed Cuckoo. Just at the main Road there were Grey-Crowned Babbler. The track had lots of activity and would have been worth spending a bit of time. Drove through to Cooktown where we stayed at the Cooktown Hotel.


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