I recently arrived home after a few weeks birding in New Zealand.
Upon arriving at Christchurch, our group went for a walk in the extensive
parklands along the Avon River and observed our first New Zealand endemics,
including Paradise Shelduck, New Zealand Pigeon, Grey Warbler and Scaup,
plus a number of introduced birds. 31 bird species in just a few hours.
Next day we drove to Arthur's Pass in the NZ Alps where we were met by the
owner of Wilderness Lodge and president of Forest and Bird, Dr Gerry
McSweeney.
After pointing out the different plants growing amongst interesting rock
formations and sighting a New Zealand falcon soaring above us, Gerry put us
to work pulling out young pine seedlings from an area of indigenous shrubs.
Pines are taking over much of the area and indigenous habitats are being
lost. We pulled out over 1,000 young pines and some wealthy US tourists
were put to work pulling out more!
The panoramic view from the dining room of Gerry's lodge was stunning: we
looked down through bushland over a wide braided river and across to
snow-covered mountains.
Next morning, Gerry took us on some walks and to some spots where we saw a
few rare birds, including a parakeet which has only just been classified as
a separate species, Orange-headed Parakeet
Gerry outlined some of the conservation problems facing New Zealand's birds
and plants (there are no mammals) ~ stoats, rats, ferrets, cats, possums,
weasels and deer. He advocated the use of 1080 to help control them.
Next morning, after observing a flock of Keas, we drove north, stopping at
lookouts and at weird coastal rock formations and did some short walks
before arriving at St. Arnaud where we stayed in log cabins and went on a
nocturnal and an early morning walk in search of kiwis and other birds. We
did not see any kiwis but the forests were most attractive and very
interesting. Our guides, Birding-Aus contributor Dan Blunt and Barry
Davies, pointed out honeydew and why it is an important food for birds.
Then we travelled to an area of springs where 1,400 litres is discharged
every SECOND! En route, we saw a Weka and Pukeko which is the New Zealand
name for Purple Swamp Hen.
We spent the next two nights in motels at Collingwood. Between sleeps, we
had breakfast at The Naked Possum (a restaurant and tannery where possum
skins are converted into hats, lamp shades and wallets) and travelled in a
specially-built bus out along a very long spit (Farewell Spit) and waded
through shallow water in order to observe Australasian Gannets and lots of
waders. There was a small flock of California Quail in a park at
Collingwood.
Next day involved a very long drive up and down steep hills across the
northern end of the South Island. We had a lovely lunch at a winery near
Nelson before driving southwards along a rocky coastline to Kaikoura.
Until this time, the weather had been magnificent. Clear skies, no wind,
warm days. But it changed. The wind blew strongly and snow fell on the
hills around this little coastal town. Nonetheless, after a lovely hearty
breakfast in the launch owner's cafe, I set off on MY FIRST pelagic cruise,
the one from Port fairy which I had booked on late last year having been
cancelled owing to rough seas. There was a two and a half metre swell. The
wind blew pelagic birds very close to shore and we saw heaps of different
species, including
1 Northern Royal Albatross
2 Southern Royal Albatross
2 Snowy Wandering albatross
30 Gibsons Wandering Albatross
2 Antipodean Wandering Albatross
1 Black-browed Cambell Island Mollymawk
1 Black-browed Sub-Antarctic Mollymawk
8 NZ White-capped albatross
17 Salvins Albatross
1 Buller's Southern Mollymawk
12 Great northern Petrels
1 Westland Petrel
16 White-chinned Petrels
70 Cape Pigeons
1 Common diving Petrel
2 Huttons Shearwater
3 Bullers Shearwater
2 Sooty Shearwater
1 Pied Cormorant
800 Spotted Shags
5 Little Pied Cormorants
2 White-fronted Terns
13 black-fronted Terns
50 Black-backed Terns
200 Red-billed Terns
1 Australasian Gannet
What a pity the pelagic was not in Australian waters as, because I live
well inland from the coast, most of the above would have been new ticks for
my Australian list.
The skipper reckoned it was his best pelagic ever, in over five years. By
the time we returned, the owner's cafe and souvenir shop was chokers with
Japanese and American tourists who wanted to go out to sea to see whales
and dolphins. But the skipper reckoned the ocean was too rough and
cancelled all remaining cruises.
Next morning, we drove north to Picton to catch a ferry across Cook Strait.
A ferry was leaving as we arrived. We set sail about two hours after the
previous ferry had left. I was atop the vessel looking for sea birds when
we hit unprotected waters of Cook Strait. Unknown to me, the skipper had
ordered everyone to sit in a seat and hold on. But you couldn't hear the PA
system outside. It was quite terrifying out there, exposed to the wind and
waves the height of two-storied buildings. But I managed to scramble down
and grab hold of a pole amidships, half way between the centre of the huge
eight-storied ferry and the stern. I watched those around me go various
shades of yellow and green before making use of sick bags. As soon as the
hostess refilled the container of sick bags located near by, it was soon
emptied before she came back with another handful. The restaurant was
closed. The theatrette was closed. The souvenir shop closed. It was near
impossible to walk in any thing resembling a straight line. There were
thumps and bangs.
But all the time Barry and Dan, our leaders, were true birders, standing
outside at the back of the ferry, scanning for petrels, albatross, cape
pigeons and other pelagic birds. They were delighted to see some Pomarine
Skuas, Cape Pigeons and many other pelagic birds. From time to time, I
joined them but it was hard to keep the binoculars and camera lens free of
salt and mist.
A young lad ran around the vessel and up and down the stairs with a big
grin on his face...it was better than Luna Park to him. Apart from Dan,
Barry, myself, the crew and that lad, everyone else seemed to be rather off
colour.
We caught up to the ferry which left before us. It had a list and had to be
towed in by a tug boat. The ferry going the other way took nine hours
instead of the normal 3 or 4 and was met by a fleet of ambulances. many of
its passengers had broken arms or legs and railway carriages broke free,
smashing scores of cars. It was front page news in New Zealand.
Next morning we walked to the museum in windy Wellington. A great museum.
The best museum I have ever visited. Our proud Maori guide took us on a
wonderful half-day tour, pointing our Maori buildings and artifacts before
we enjoyed the best sound and light show of all time: we sat in old chairs
in a shop as the shutters were drawn over its window and a video presented
New Zealand's history. A baby cried in a pram alongside us. Toy soldiers on
a table marched. A TV set came on from time to time. Wonderful. If you are
ever in Wellington, allow at least a full day at the museum! There was a
display of New Zealand birds and pelagic birds.
We took an electric train (trains still have conductors!) north alongside
the ocean and through very long tunnels to a town with an unpronounceable
name. We intended to take a launch to Kapiti Island, refuge for rare and
endangered NZ birds like Kaka, Weka and Kiwis. But the skipper refused to
venture out on the rough ocean. So we hired a helicopter and flew out three
at a time. This all took time. As a result, our limited-time permit expired
but we could stay in houses with local maori people overnight. We broke
into two groups. The other group found kiwis within minutes. Our group
walked around until after mid night without luck I called it quits about
twelve. The maori guide and Dan and Barry saw a kiwi about half past one
a.m.
There was an early morning bird walk and another after breakfast. We saw
some of the rare endemics, lots of Tui and Bellbirds and a colony of Royal
Spoonbills. There were lots of Black-backed Gulls and Red-billed Gulls. New
Zealand Robins are quite fearless and like showing off at close quarters.
The robins on the island were no exception. Then we were ferried back to
the mainland and took a train back to Wellington.
Upon arriving back at Wellington, I visited the art gallery (where there
were three great exhibitions) and returned to the museum so that I could go
into the earthquake house for which there was a long queue when we were
there the previous morning. As it was near closing time, I had the house to
myself until the floor started to shake and rattle and ornaments fell off
the wall. Wow! But not as rough as the ferry ride.
Most of the others visited a wildlife park, had to argue long and hard to
get in at such a late hour, and had only a few minutes there before closing
time. But they could tick off a few more wild birds but missed seeing a
Saddleback.
We had a wonderful dinner at nearby Mac's Brewery and walked back to our
hotel quite late. A few hours later, I had to be up by 1am Australian
summer time ready to catch a shuttle bus to the airport for the flight home.
We only visited the northern half of the South Island and the southern tip
of the North Island. All up, our group observed 102 species in New Zealand
over 12 days.
Keith Stockwell
Moama
southern NSW
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