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A dream come true. Galapagos 3

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Subject: A dream come true. Galapagos 3
From: "Wim Vader" <>
Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2006 10:30:40 +0100

                                        A DREAM COME TRUE. GALAPGOS 3. BIRDS AT 
SEA


During our two weeks in the Galapagos we stayed aboard the schooner Cachalote. 
From the deck and during the many panga-rides (the pangas being the local small 
zodiacs) we had ample opportunity to watch the seabirds at sea, of which there 
often were a lot.

Not in all cases does the watching of seabirds at sea yield a lot of 
information. The elegant Dark-rumped Petrels,  by the way now seemingly to be 
split off as Galapagos Petrel, I always just saw fly past, in windy weather in 
the spectacular arching flight so typical of Pterodroma petrels. Also the 
dainty and quite swallow-like Wedge-rumped Petrels one usually only sees flying 
past; apparently this species, though diurnal at the colonies, forages mostly 
at night. The other common storm-petrel, the still smaller Elliott's Storm 
Petrel with its short tail, narrower white rump and more fluttering flight, 
does feed during the day, exhibiting the characteristic 'walking on the water' 
behaviour that have earned the whole group the name 'petrels' (After Peters 
first 'walk on the water'). I noticed several times that these storm petrels 
were attracted to sea lions violently throwing around large prey; clearly the 
petrels feed on the small bits that are shaken off during this process.

The cozy and quite small Audubon's Shearwaters, by far the most common of the 
tubenoses here, one usually seees in level flight, low over the water in 
typical shearwater fashion. But now and then they congregate in smaller or even 
very large flocks and start feeding. This is clearly at spots where there are 
schools of small fish near the surface, often chased from below by larger 
predatory fish. We too can in many cases recognize such places, as small 
fountains seem to erupt from the surface of the sea, and now and then a largish 
fish jumps clear. I had the strong impression that the shearwaters knew how to 
interpret these signs, but also that maybe they mostly keep eye with each 
other. It might take some time for the first bird to arrive at a spot with 
'boiling water', but once one or two had landed, many more come in rapidly. The 
shearwaters flop down in the water, look beneath the surface, and in many cases 
execute very shallow dives with outstretched wings. In a tight flock it looks 
for all the world as if they elbow each other out of the way. The prey is 
presumably mainly very small fish. Brown Noddies often hover over the flock in 
the hope that some prey is spilled, in which case they are very quick to pick 
it up. I do not think the noddies directly harass the shearwaters.

Not rarely such shearwater feeding frenzies also attract the almost always 
present Blue-footed Boobies, typical inshore feeders. And in such cases we are 
in for much more spectacular fishing. These boobies are pursuit divers, as are 
all gannets, and normally they dive almost vertically from a considerable 
height and disappear completely under water, to bob up like a cork after a few 
seconds. But they are clearly able to vary their techniques after the 
circumstances: in the feeding frenzies they often dive from a very shallow 
angle, and in the most intense melées they simply flop down and fish from the 
surface. These scenes may be impressively hectic and one wonders how the 
boobies avoid hitting each other or the shearwaters, when they dive at high 
speed in the middle of the throng. But I never saw any accident.

The other boobies dive the same way, but elsewhere, so one gets to see them far 
less often. The large and powerful black and white Nazca Boobies fish further 
from shore,  and the small and agile Red-footed Boobies are fully pelagic and 
fly long distances from the feeding area to the colonies. A small group of 
these redfoots followed our ship as we steamed south from Genovesa (see part 
4); they perched on the rigging, and from there made lightning quick sallies, 
trying to catch the flying fish in the air!

Another diver is the Brown Pelican, of which there are always a few around. I 
have not generally seen them in the worst feeding frenzies. They often dive 
surprisingly close to shore, in very shallow water. The somewhat floppy and 
clumsy looking aerial dives look much less accomplished than the very smooth 
dives of the boobies, but the pelicans are clearly very efficient fishermen and 
surprisingly often 'come up' (they in reality almost never totally submerge) 
with a large fish. As described earlier, this is a sign for the ever 
opportunistic noddies to fly in and perch on the head of the pelican; I am 
somewhat unsure of what they want to achieve, as most of the prey fishes of the 
pelicans seem clearly too large for the noddies to swallow. The pelicans also 
gulp down their fishes whiole, but probably somehow they are sloppy eaters and 
there is spillage for the noddies to catch.

There were no other terns at sea, and the Swallow-tailed Gulls, who also are 
pelagic feeders, forage at night and are not often seen away from the colonies 
during the day. The other gull of the islands, the all dark Lava Gull, is a 
typical gull, scrounging and scavenging along the shores.

We looked in vain for whales and dolphins during this cruise and also saw 
probably less than the normal quota of large spectacular fishes, but as I hope 
to have shown, there was nevertheless always enough to watch from the upper 
deck of the Cachalote to keep us interested.

                                                                        Wim 
Vader, Tromsø Museum
                                                                        9037 
Tromsø, Norway
                                                                        

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