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Subject: Trip Report: Cairns, Georgetown and Karumba (Long)
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Trip Report=3A Cairns=2C Julatten=2C Mossman River=2C Georgetown=2C and
K=
arumba =
on the Gulf of Carpentaria=2C Mid-September 2004
=
Hi All=2C
I=27ve just spent a couple of weeks birding with Greg Oakley in
Far-North=
=
Queensland around Cairns=2C Julatten=2C Mount Lewis and the Mossman
River=
=2E =
We then headed west to Georgetown and Karumba on the Gulf of =
Carpentaria=2E The following trip report is essentially a summation of =
the main areas we visited during mid-September=2E I have also included
a =
selected annotated bird list at the end of this report for future =
reference=2C including local information status and subspecies =
differentiation=2E
Basically we treated the trip as a bit of a Twitchathon=2C which meant =
that we birded continually from dawn to dusk (and beyond)=2C which was =
incredibly rewarding but also extremely tiring=2E Overall we travelled =
2500 kilometres and saw over an impressive 261 bird species=2E I hope
you=
=
enjoy the read=2E =
1=2E Cairns
As our plane touched down at Cairns Airport our first bird for the trip
=
(from the plane window) was a White-breasted Woodswallow=2C a good bird
=
for Victorians but perhaps the most conspicuous bird around Cairns=2E =
From the airport we picked up our hire car and headed straight to the =
Cairns Esplanade=2C seeing Graceful Honeyeater and Spangled Drongo
along =
the way=2E The mudflat along the Cairns Esplanade was teeming with
waders=
=
including Eastern Curlew=2C Whimbrel=2C Sharp-tailed Sandpiper=2C
Curlew =
Sandpiper=2C Marsh Sandpiper=2C Pied Oystercatcher=2C Striated Heron=2C
R=
ed-
necked Stint=2C Pacific Golden Plover=2C and Bar-tailed Godwit=2E There
w=
ere =
also several Eastern Reef Egret=2C good numbers of Gull-billed Tern=2C =
Crested Tern and the odd Caspian Tern=2E Also seen here were Brown and =
Lewin=92s Honeyeater as well as Varied Honeyeater calling from
flowering =
Frangipani along the boardwalk=2C Helmeted Friarbird=2C Pied Imperial-
Pigeon and Nutmeg Mannikin=2E =
We visited the Esplanade both at the beginning and the end of our
trip=2E=
=
On our second visit to the Esplanade we concentrated our birding around
=
the mangroves to the north of the Esplanade=2E We were able to whistle
in=
=
a pair of Mangrove Robin=2C and Collared Kingfisher hunted on the
mudflat=
=
near the mangroves=2E And just for good measure an Osprey flew south
down=
=
the boardwalk=2E
I had received a report of a pair of Papuan Frogmouth at Centenary =
Lakes=2C so we headed to the south side of the lake=2E As we parked
besid=
e =
the lake we heard honeyeaters calling from bottlebrush across the road =
in the gardens of James Cook University=2E Theses were literally jam-
packed with honeyeater=2C including Brown-backed=2C Dusky=2C Yellow and
=
Graceful Honeyeater=2C and Yellow-spotted and White-throated were seen =
nearby=2E Not a bad way to start our passerine list! Not
surprisingly=2C=
=
as a general rule we found that wherever there was flowering =
bottlebrush (or Grevillia) it was worth stopping because they were =
usually stocked full of honeyeater=2E =
With little trouble we found the reported Papuan Frogmouth on the =
rainforest boardwalk =96 go to the third crick in the boardwalk when =
entering from the south=2C look right and up =96 and nearby we also got
=
onto several fast flying Double-eyed (Macleay=92s) Fig-Parrot and White-
rumped Swiftlet=2C both of which were seen with regularity throughout
our=
=
trip=2E A Black Butcherbird was calling loudly in Flecker Botanic
Gardens=
=
and Metallic Starling was seen in a suburban street nearby=2E From
Cairns=
=
we headed North to Kingfisher Park at Julatten=2E
2=2E Julatten and Kingfisher Park
We arrived at Kingfisher Park just before dusk=2C and the first bird we
=
saw was Pale-yellow Robin=2E I had searched long and hard for the =
southern race of the Pale-yellow Robin capito in North-Central NSW =
earlier in the year=2C and yet here was the northern race nana
flittering=
=
around our campsite=2E During the night we heard Barking and Barn
Owl=2C =
and Bush Stone-curlew hollered in the distance=2E In the morning we
awoke=
=
to a dawn chorus full of intriguing calls for Victorians=2E We heard
the =
call of a Grey Whistler=2C which we tracked down to the entrance
drive=2C=
=
Little Shrike-thrush were the common shrike-thrush=2C Macleay=92s=2C
Yell=
ow-
spotted=2C Graceful and Dusky Honeyeater where plentiful=2C
particularly =
in =
a flowering Grevillia next to our campsite=2C and Metallic Starling
moved=
=
in unison like the Peloton of the Tour de France=2E Other birds at =
Kingfisher Park included Gould=92s Bronze-cuckoo=2C Emerald Dove=2C
Brown=
=
Cuckoo- Dove=2C Wompoo Fruit-Dove=2C Brush-turkey and Orange-footed =
Scrubfowl (surely Australia silliest bird with a head far too small for
=
its body)=2C which bustled their way around the Park=2C White-bellied =
Cuckoo-shrike=2C Spectacled Monarch=2C Fairy Gerygone=2C a Noisy Pitta =
patrolled its territory next to the main drive=2C a Red-necked Crake
was =
seen on dusk at the small dam near the orchard=2C and a pair of Pacific
=
Baza were seen roosting in the gum trees in the northern corner of =
Park=2E =
From our base at Kingfisher Park we then headed to the Mossman River to
=
do Peter Cooper=92s birding boat trip=2E
3=2E Mossman River =
We were particularly looking forward to this trip=2E From all reports
it =
had become one of the best birding boat trips in Australia=2C and it =
certainly lived up to all expectations! =
The short river cruise travels up the Mossman for several kilometres=2C
=
passing through a number of different environments=3A beaches and
coastal=
=
estuary=2C mangroves and reed beds=2C and finally coastal rainforest
and =
mangrove thickets=2E Our first bird was an Osprey that circled the
boat=2C=
=
Common Sandpiper (or Uncommon Sandpiper as it is known in Victoria) =
teetered on the banks of the river=2C and Large-billed Gerygone and =
Varied Triller called from the mangroves=2E We managed to get onto a
few =
Mangrove Robin and Shining Flycatcher=2C both responding well to
pishing=2C=
=
and we saw five species of kingfisher=3A Forest Kingfisher (seen
earlier =
near the car park)=2C Sacred=2C Azure=2C Collared and superb views of a
=
Little Kingfisher in reeds half way up the river=2E In an area
intermixed=
=
with rainforest and mangroves the icing on the cake was a Great-billed =
Heron=2C which took flight and landed like a tetradactyl on a branch
over=
-
hanging the river=2E On the way back a pair a Grey-tailed Tattler sat =
quietly on a log=2C while a large flock of a Greater Sand Plover =
nervously circled the beach looking for somewhere to land=2E =
From Mossman we drove to the small township of Daintree=2E Alan =
Gillanders had given me information on a Lovely Fairy-wren site behind =
the water tower near the centre of town=2E We eventually found a small =
group of birds=2C approximately100 meters up the track that leads
north=2C=
=
with several males giving us excellent views of their lovely fairy-wren
=
plumage=2E =
4=2E Mount Lewis State Forest
Although it was the wrong time of year to see Blue-faced Parrot-finch =
at Mount Lewis (they tend to turn up around early November)=2C it is an
=
excellent place to see many of the local endemics=2E We visited the =
mountain several times concentrating on the well documented clearing 10
=
kilometres up the track=2E At this clearing there was Grey-headed
Robin=2C=
=
Mountain Thornbill=2C Atherton Scrubwren and Bridled Honeyeater=2E From
t=
he =
clearing we hiked up the track which lead southwest=2E Along the way we
=
saw Golden Bowerbird=2C Tooth-billed Bowerbird=2C Spotted Catbird=2C =
Victoria=92s Riflebird=2C Chowchilla=2C which like Logrunner bustles
loud=
ly =
in the undergrowth=2C Fernwren=2C Yellow-throated Scrubwren=2C Grey and
=
Golden Whistler=2C Bower=92s Shrike-thrush=2C Bridled Honeyeater=2C
Spect=
acled =
Monarch=2C Rufous and Grey Fantail=2C Pied Imperial and Topknot Pigeon
an=
d =
Brown Cuckoo-Dove=2E =
5=2E Other birding sites within a stone=27s throw of Kingfisher Park
While staying at Kingfisher Park we visited a number of good bird spots
=
in the area including Abattoir Swamp=2C Mount Molloy=2C Mount
Carbine=2C =
Big =
Mitchell Creek=2C and Lake Mitchell=2E Further a field we also visited =
Emerald Creek Falls and the Curtain Fig Tree=2E All these areas proved =
excellent birding sites with each containing a few additional target =
birds for our trip=2E =
i=2E At Abattoir Swamp we got onto a single White-browed Crake on the
=
waters edge near a clump of small gum (10 metres) as you look north =
through the hide=2E =
ii=2E In bush at the end of Wessels Road (between Abattoir Swamp and
Mt=
=
Malloy) we saw Northern Fantail and flushed a pair of Large-tailed =
Nightjar=2C with their distinctive white tail feathers and looking like
a=
=
pair of large black butterflies=2E In many ways the nightjar were the =
birds of our trip=2C being unexpected (especially during the day) and =
entirely delightful=2E Scarlet Honeyeater was also common here=2E
iii=2E At Mount Molloy we had excellent views of a pair of nesting =
Square-tailed Kite=2C distinguished with their beautiful white face=2C =
immediately to the east of the two sports fields=2E
iv=2E There had been recent reports of Painted Snipe at the dam near
Mt=
=
Carbine=2E We did not see the Painted Snipe but we did see half a dozen
=
Latham=92s Snipe=2C large numbers of Plumed Whistling-Duck=2C
Great-crest=
ed =
Grebe (uncommon in this part of Queensland)=2C Australian Pratincole=2C
R=
ed-
kneed Dotterel=2C Greenshank and Sharp-tailed Sandpiper=2E =
At Mt Carbine we also nearly rolled the four-wheel drive down the wall =
of the dam=3B any further and we would have been in the drink! After
the =
appropriate curses=2C Greg and I walked to the pub=2C had several
middies=
=
with Jonesy=2C a local hero who was renowned for pulling people=27s
cars =
out during the wet=2C before we headed back to our car and he pulled us
=
out=2E Nice bloke=2C although most of the time he complained about
birder=
s =
peering into the backyards of the locals=2C and he was particularly
upset=
=
about all the people who came to see =22some bloody
warbler=22(referring =
to =
last year=27s Isaballine Wheatear)=2E =22They even bloody flew in from =
overseas!=22 he said=2E
v=2E At Big Mitchell Creek we searched several times for White-browed
=
Robin=2E On our first visit we walked a kilometre or so up-stream with
no=
=
success=2E On our second visit=2C we pulled into the car park=2C
dropped =
immediately into the dry creek bed=2C pished several times and out
popped=
=
the bird=2E Lemon-bellied Flycatcher was also fairly common at this
site=2E=
=
We also saw a pair of distant friarbird=2C which took flight before we =
had a chance to get a good look=2E Based on very brief views=2C by
colour=
=2C =
size and facial features=2C we speculated Silver-crowned Friarbird=2C =
although this bird needs verification this far south=2C being more
common=
=
around Cooktown=2E So if anybody has had recent sightings of SCF at
this =
location please let me know=3F
vi=2E Mitchell Swamp (if that=92s the right name)=2C which is just
nort=
h of =
Big Mitchell Creek=2C is a tremendous wetland area=2C looking
distinctive=
ly =
like the Camargue with horses feeding in amongst the lilies=2E The
swamp =
was literally covered with thousands of waterbirds=2C including Comb-
crested Jacana=2C Wandering Whistling-Duck=2C Magpie Geese=2C Green
Pygmy=
-
Goose and it was the only site we saw Cotton Pygmy-Goose=2E =
vii=2E Emerald Creek Falls Picnic area=2E We were unable to locate
the =
Rufous Owl that Peter Waanders had recently reported=3B however there
was=
=
several Squatter Pigeon and Scarlet Honeyeater were calling on mass=2E
viii=2E The Curtain Fig Tree was the only place we saw Yellow-breasted
=
Boatbill where they proved to be quite common in the under storey of =
the upper canopy=2E We also had good views of Pied Monarch and
Gould=92s =
Bronze-Cuckoo=2E
ix=2E On the second last day of the trip we visited the Cairns =
Crocodile Farm=2C which despite being fulling staffed was closed=2E My =
guess is that someone has been eaten=3F With some irony we did not
visit =
the farm to see White-browed Crake (which we had seen at Abattoir =
Swamp) but to add Crimson Finch to our trip list=2E Despite the farm =
being closed we did investigate the mangrove areas around the farm
i=2Ee=2E=
=
those areas in front of the farm=2E This area proved to be a good
birding=
=
spot=2C particularly for Shining Flycatcher=2C which responds well to =
pishing=2E We also managed to get onto Crimson Finch (and Chestnut-
breasted Mannikin) in cane fields along nearby Thomson=27s Road=2E =
6=2E Georgetown and Cumberland Dam
After our stay at Kingfisher Park we headed 450 kilometres west to =
Cumberland Dam near Georgetown=2E There had been recent reports that =
Cumberland Dam was firing=2C with large numbers of finches coming in
each=
=
morning to drink=2E In some ways we had deliberately timed out trip to =
FNQ to coincide with the end of the dry season and the beginning of =
spring=2C which would give us our best shot of seeing some good birds =
around the waterholes of central Cape York=2E Cumberland Dam did not =
disappoint=2E
The first bird we saw when we arrived upon dusk was Rufous-throated =
Honeyeater=2C which was the most common honeyeater in central Cape
York=2E=
=
In the morning once again we arose to the intriguing sounds of an =
unusual dawn chorus=2E We saw more Rufous-throated Honeyeater=2C as
well =
as =
Yellow-tinted=2C Brown=2C Yellow=2C Grey-fronted and Blue-faced
Honeyeate=
r=3B a =
nearby Pied Butcherbird called clean and crisply=2C a happy family of =
Grey-crowned Babbler claimed several trees as their own=2C and a male =
Great Bowerbird had its bower on the rise immediately opposite our =
campsite=2E =
We spent two days at Cumberland Dam=2C once on the way through to
Karumba=
=
on the gulf and once on the way back=2E On both occasions we found that
=
the most productive dam (in terms of birds coming in for their morning =
drink) was not the main dam=2C but the smaller dam to the west=2E At
this=
=
dam we hung around the fence line=2C which had several mid size shrubs =
nearby=2C acting as a protective vantage point for the finches to roost
=
as they came into drink=2E We saw six species of finch=3A Zebra=2C
Chestn=
ut-
breasted=2C Double-barred=2C Black-throated=2C Masked and a single Plum-
headed Finch=2E =
We also had our fingers crossed in the hope of seeing either Gouldian =
Finch or Pictorella Mannikin=2C but basically we were dreaming! It was =
the wrong time of year for seeing Pictorella=2C and there had been no =
sightings=2C despite extensive searching=2C of Gouldians on Cape York
for=
=
several years=2E Interestingly one story going around the traps reveals
=
that a finch breeder near Mareeba had released Gouldians several years =
back=2C but that a Hobby ate all these for breakfast in the first week!
Some of the other birds seen at Cumberland Dam included Pale-headed =
Rosella (race adscitus or the Blue-cheeked Rosella)=2C Red-winged
Parrot=2C=
=
Red-tailed Black Cockatoo=2C Blue-winged Kookaburra=2C Australian
Bustard=
=2C =
Hardhead and Green Pygmy-Goose=2C Comb-crested Jacana (which seem to
turn=
=
up where-ever there are lily pads=2C even if the dam is in the middle
of =
no-where and the it is the size a tennis court)=2C Squatter Pigeon=2C
Red=
-
backed Kingfisher=2C Brown Treecreeper (race melanota or the Black =
Treecreeper) and White-bellied Cuckoo-shrike=2E Another striking thing =
about Cumberland Dam was the colour and light at dusk=2C which had the =
most subtle pastel blues and pinks=2E =
We saw a couple of other good birds in the vicinity of Georgetown =
including Ground Cuckoo-shrike=2C seen at several locations along the =
Gulf Development Rd=2C and a nice surprise was a Black-breasted
Buzzard=2C=
=
20 kilometres west of Mount Surprise=2E =
From Cumberland Dam we headed to Karumba=2C approximately 400
kilometres =
west of Georgetown=2E On the way to Karumba we passed the famous =
Gulflander railway=2C which runs between Croydon and Normanton=3B or to
p=
ut =
it another way (and with out any disrespect) it runs between nowhere =
and nowhere=2C unless you happen to live in nowhere=2C in which it is a
=
great railway service! =
7=2E Karumba
On the road between Karumba from Normanton we saw a pair of Sarus Crane
=
with one juvenile=2C several hundred Brolga=2C Australian Bastard=2C
Blac=
k-
necked Stork=2C Glossy Ibis and Australian Pratincole was common =
particularly in areas of grassland that had been recently burnt-out=2E =
(These burnt areas can also be good for Gouldian Finch=2E) =
Karumba is a fantastic place for viewing the mangrove birds of the =
Gulf=2C and regarded by many as one of the best birding spots in =
Australia=2E We birded several times in the mangroves to the north of
the=
=
Karumba School=2C seeing Zitting and Golden-headed Cisticola=2C Tawny =
Grassbird=2C Mangrove Gerygone=2C Yellow White-eye=2C White-breasted =
Whistler=2C Rufous-throated and Brown Honeyeater=2C as well as the =
occasional Yellow and White-gaped Honeyeater=2E As with most mangrove =
birds=2C pishing was an effective way to attract most of these birds=2E
=
While in Karumba I recommend doing Russell Holt=92s (the Ferryman=92s)
bo=
at =
trip=2E It leaves at 9=3A00am (during the dry) from the boat ramp in
the =
centre of town=2C although it is worth booking the night before=2E On
the=
=
boat trip we saw Red-headed Honeyeater (which is specifically linked to
=
flowering mangrove)=2C Mangrove Robin=2C Mangrove Grey Fantail=2C Broad-
billed Flycatcher=2C White-breasted Whistler=2C Little Bronze-Cuckoo=2C
=
Mangrove Gerygone=2C Terek Sandpiper=2C Whimbrel=2C Little Curlew=2C
East=
ern =
Curlew=2C Common Sandpiper=2C both Sand-plover=2C Black-necked Stork=2C
=
Brahminy Kite and White-bellied Sea-Eagle=2E
I also suggest having a few quiet beers at the Sunset Tavern in =
Karumba=2C particular because of the view the sun setting over the Gulf
=
of Carpentaria=2E There is also an excellent area of mudflat in front
of =
the tavern that attracts large numbers of waders=2E So you can do some =
wader watching while having a quiet beer at the same time=2E Here we
saw =
Lesser and Greater Sand Plover=2C Sharp-tailed Sandpiper=2C Red-necked =
Stint=2C Grey Plover and a possibly a Broad-billed Sandpiper=2E We
camped=
=
in the Karumba Point Caravan Park=2C which had Barking Owl calling at =
night=2E The local fish =26 chip shop also has a mean Barramundi
(Barra) =
Burger!
There is also an excellent site for Star Finch next to a small dam =
immediate to the north of the intersection (20 metres) of Col=2E
Kitching=
=
Drive and the Karumba Development Road=2E In a small bush beside this
dam=
=
we saw a mixed flock of over 100 finches=2C including Star Finch=2C
Doubl=
e-
barred Finch=2C Zebra Finch and Chestnut-breasted Mannikin=2E After
Karum=
ba =
we headed back to Cumberland Dam and then back to Cairns=2E =
8=2E Conclusion
Our bird total for the trip was an impressive 261 birds=2C 262 if you =
count the Helmeted Guinea Fowl near Ravenshoe (although it was =
farmed!)=2C as well as a few questions marks=2E We birded hard=2C
basical=
ly =
from dawn to dusk=2C which was incredibly tiring but extremely
rewarding=2E=
Finally I would like to thank a number of people including Mick Todd=2C
=
Peter Waanders=2C Stuart Dashper=2C Alan Gillanders=2C John Harris and
De=
l =
Richards=2C who freely provided us with local birding tips=2C Ron
Stannar=
d =
and his fantastic team at Kingfisher Park for there hospitality=2C =
general good character and excellent mud maps=2C Peter Cooper for a =
memorable trip up the Mossman=2C and Russell Holt for an a excellent
trip=
=
on the Norman=2E Thanks=2E
(Continued=3A See Part Two for Annotated Birds List=2E)
Part Two=3A Selected Annotated Bird List =
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