CLIMATE AND BIRDING
While the trip was definitely a birding trip it was primarily organised as a
celebration of our 25th Wedding Anniversary. This meant that we were
limited to May/June which was far from the ideal time of the year. India in
particular was extremely hot and waiting desperately for the onset of the
monsoon. The TV news consistently reported maximum daily temperatures of
450 C and over for the Gangetic plains (Delhi and Agra) with minimums in the
low to mid 30s. In the higher altitudes of northern India and Bhutan the
temperatures were quite pleasant with maximums in the high 20s for the most
part. In Bhutan it rained most days and this disrupted the birding somewhat
although we were able to get at least some in on each day. The high
Himalayas were always under a heavy blanket of cloud so we got none of the
views of the high mountains mentioned in the Lonely Planet Guide Book for
Bhutan. On the return flight from Paro to Kathmandu, however, the weather
cleared and we got wonderful views of Jhomolhari Bhutan’s highest peak, and
a whole range of peaks in Nepal including Kanchenjunga, Makalu and Everest
itself. There were a load of other peaks whose names remained unknown to
us.
Many Himalayan birds are altitudinal migrants and move up to around 5 000 m
during the summer months. Intra- and inter-continental migrants are for the
most part winter or passage migrants to the area. The best time to visit
the area appears to be during March-April with the winter months being a
close second. Once the monsoon starts in mid-June I would imagine that many
places become totally inaccessible. Corbett National Park is closed during
this period. In spite of all this we still managed to see a total of 324
birds which, from the trip reports that I have read, seems to be about par
for the course for a three-week trip.
Contrary to what some trip reports and promotional material suggest we did
not find the birds tame and easy to see – not by African standards at least.
Many were super skulkers that were very vocal, but took a great deal of time
and patience to see. The one exception was Keoladeo where the birds were
indeed easy to see. This must be a wonderful birding spot at the right time
of year and I look forward to returning sometime.
ITINERARY IN BRIEF
DAY 1 - 15 May
14:15 - Depart Johannesburg International Airport aboard Emirates Flight EK
762 for Dubai, UAE
DAY 2 - 16 May
00:25 - Arrive Dubai International Airport, clear Customs and Immigration,
collect hire vehicle and transfer to Airport Hotel.
06:30 - Leave hotel for Khor al Beidah, Um al Qawain. My somewhat ambitious
plans to visit the interior of the UAE and Dibba on the east coast were
severely curtailed and we returned to the hotel for some dearly needed sleep
by 15:30. Birded in the hotel gardens from 17:30 until dark. Took the
shuttle to the airport.
22:40 - Depart Dubai International Airport aboard Emirates Flight EK 512 for
Delhi, India. Saw 34 birds for the day
DAY 3 - 17 May
03:15 - Arrive Indira Gandhi International Airport, Delhi.
After clearing Customs and Immigration we are met by Sibi and another driver
from Asian Adventures. Go birding in Sanjay Van Park after an hour’s drive
through Old Delhi.
11:30 - Depart Indira Gandhi International Airport aboard Druk Air Flight KB
203 for Kathmandu, Nepal and Paro, Bhutan.
15:05 - Arrive Paro International Airport. After clearing Customs and
Immigration we are met by Karma (MD and Cultural Guide), Tshering (Bird
Guide) Shatu and Dawa (drivers) of Nature Tourism-Bhutan. Culture Vultures
leave us and we do some local birding before leaving for Thimphu, the
capital city of Bhutan.
Overnight Hotel River View, Thimphu
Saw 49 species for the day, 37 of which were new for the trip
DAY 4 - 18 May
04:30 start. Birding at the summit of Dochu La (La is a mountain pass in
Dzongkha, the official language of Bhutan) at around 3 140 m. Breakfast at
Dochu La Café. Birding from Dochu La to Punakha for overnight stop.
Overnight Meri Puensum Resort
Saw 62 species for the day, 44 of which were new for the trip
DAY 5 - 19 May
After an early breakfast at the hotel we birded along the Mo Chhu (Chhu is
river in Dzongkha) valley up to Tashithang and the Jigme Dorji National
Park. Meri Puensum burnt down while we were out birding so we had to change
hotels when we got back. Tonight we were reunited with the Culture
Vultures.
Overnight Zangdho Pelri Hotel
Saw 62 species for the day, 28 of which were new for the trip
DAY 6 - 20 May
Morning spent birding along the Mo Chhu valley again. Return to the hotel
for lunch and spent the afternoon birding south of Wangdi Phodrang along the
Puna Tsang Chhu valley as far as Kamichu.
Overnight Zangdho Pelri Hotel
Saw 64 species for the day, 11 of which were new for the trip
DAY 7 - 21 May
Spent the day birding along the road past Wangdue Phodrang, up the Dang Chhu
valley and across Lawa La (3 360 m) to Gangtey Goempa (Gangtey Monastery).
Overnight Gangtey Goempa Guest House
Saw 68 species for the day, 14 of which were new for the trip
DAY 8 - 22 May
Birding along the road to Trongsa crossing Pele La (3 420 m). Shirley had a
bad fall at Gangtey and later proved to have a broken hip. Karma took her
on to Trongsa where she was examined by a Doctor and referred to the
hospital at Jakar for X-rays. Overnight Sherubling Lodge
Saw 44 species for the day, 12 of which were new for the trip
DAY 9 - 23 May
Jo joined Shirley for the drive to Jakar. Elize and I had some early
morning birding along the Trongsa-Shemgang road, returning to Trongsa for a
late breakfast. Later birding along the road to Jakar and the Bumthang
Valley. Cross Yutong La at 3 425 m. Shirley had been x-rayed at Jakar
Hospital, but the X-rays picked up no fractures. She still could not walk
so she and Lisa did not go on the three-day hike in the Bumthang Valley that
had been planned for them.
Overnight Mephang Guest House
Saw 62 species for the day, 13 of which were new for the trip
DAY 10 - 24 May
Make an early start from Jakar, cross Sheltang La (3 590 m) into the Ura
Valley and climb over Thrumshing La (3 750 m), past the village of Sengor.
Overnight at a campsite on the Lingmethang road.
Saw 52 species for the day, 10 of which were new for the trip
DAY 11 - 25 May
Birding mostly in the vicinity of our campsite.
Overnight at a campsite on the Lingmethang road.
Saw 58 species for the day, 15 of which were new for the trip
DAY 12 - 26 May
A.M. birding along the road above the campsite. Afternoon birding lower
down at Yonkala.
Overnight at a campsite on the Lingmethang road.
Saw 84 species for the day, 9 of which were new for the trip
DAY 13 - 27 May
Birding along the long drive back to Jakar where we were reunited with
Shirley and Lisa. Shirley was still unable to walk.
Overnight Mepham Guest House
Saw 60 species for the day, 11 of which were new for the trip.
DAY 14 - 28 May
Today is essentially a cultural day visiting Kurjey Lhakang (Kurjey Temple),
Jampa Lhakang and Jakar Dzong (Jakar Monastery-Fort) in the morning.
Shirley and Lisa joined us for the drive back to Trongsa.
Overnight Sherubling Lodge
Saw 49 species for the day, none of which were new for the trip
DAY 15 - 29 May
Essentially a driving day as we take on the long and winding road to
Thimphu. Shirley taken to the Thimphu Hospital where the x-rays showed a
fractured femur. Tonight we had a farewell dinner with Karma, his wife
Pema, Tshering and Shatu.
Overnight Hotel River View
Saw 30 species for the day, 1 of which was new for the trip
DAY 16 - 30 May
Morning spent at the Craft Market and Emporium in Thimphu followed by a
visit to the Thimphu Zoo to see a Takin - Bhutan’s national mammal. After
many phone calls to and from the travel insurers - Discovery Heath and First
National Bank in South Africa - it was decided that Shirley and Lisa should
stay in Thimphu from where they would be evacuated to Bangkok in Thailand
for further medical examination. Later Jo, Elize and I drove to Paro and
got views of Paro and Drukgyel Dzongs (the latter a ruin) and Taktshang
Goempa or Tiger’s Nest Monastery. Visit Kyichu Lhakang.
Overnight Rinchen Ling Lodge
Saw 10 species for the day, none of which were new for the trip.
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