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Cape York

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Subject: Cape York
From: Lloyd Nielsen <>
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2007 11:03:36 -0800
Tim,

As someone who is very familiar with Cape York Peninsula (I have been visiting for close to 20 years, live at the base of the Peninsula and have assisted Klaus with his annual Bird Week at Bamaga in January for a number of years), I agree 100% with Michael's wise words. It is unwise to attempt to travel up the Peninsula (no further north than Lakeland Downs) from December on. You may get there OK but there is a good chance your vehicle (or the vehicle you hire) might be stranded for months - also you yourself would most likely have to be rescued! In recent years, there have been late wet seasons and some quite dry wet seasons and people have been driving up and back which has led to complacency. This wet season, the Laura River (at Laura at the base of the Peninsula) has been metres over the bridge for several months. Local people when needing to travel up the Cape in December watch the weather closely and if the road is still open, drive non-stop as fast as possible. Places like Lakefield NP are closed over the wet season and there are heavy fines for entering through this period.
About 12 years ago not long after I had moved to the area, I had my own 
near-disaster experience. It was mid-December, just north of Cooktown on 
a road leading between Cooktown and Lakelfield NP. I missed being 
stranded between two rivers by minutes, through complacency (I actually 
had a Red Goshawk sitting 30 metres from me for 40 minutes - best view 
I  have ever had - and was reluctant to leave). I beat the floodwaters 
by about 30 minutes - it was quite fine where I was but there had been 
storms on the headwaters overnight. Had I not beaten the floodwaters, my 
vehicle would have been stranded between those rivers for close to 5 
months. The other frightening thing was that there were no stations or 
human habitation between those rivers and I would have had to wait for 
rescue after the alarm went up that I was missing. Swimming across those 
flooded rivers at that time would have been inviting a quick trip to 
another world! Even now when I look back I cannot believe how lucky I was.
Ron Stannard, the previous manager of Kingfisher Park lived at Bamaga 
for many years and frequently travelled the road. His advice to visitors 
was never try to attempt to go up there after the end of November. 
Tropical storms normally start about that time (the start of the wet 
season). The road is mostly unsealed and most streams/gullies do not 
have bridges over them - road crossings go right down into the stream 
beds and up the other side. It is common to have a metre or more of 
water running in the streams and gullies from those storms (about 5 
metres in my case!)
At one Bird Week a couple of years ago during the first week of January, 
some Melbourne television people arrived in Bamaga in large 4WD vehicles 
covered completely in mud. They had got through to about 60 km S of 
Bamaga where they hit boggy roads. They got through to Bamaga after a 
pretty harrowing few hours but there was no way they could drive back. 
Luckily they were able to get the vehicles back to Cairns on the weekly 
barge service (the barge does not run every day!) They were a group of
worried people and did not enjoy their extended stay in Bamaga as some 
had commitments back home. In addition, if you are travelling through by 
road to Bamaga, there is a ferry across the Jardine River. I am not sure 
of recent requirements but it was unmanned through much of the wet 
season (road closed) and you had to make prior arrangements to get 
someone to crank it up so that you could cross.
Looking at your bird list, I think you have a few safe options. (Driving 
up in December is definitely not one of them!)
With a few species, you have a better chance in the Wet Tropics around 
Cairns, Daintree and the Atherton Tableland e.g. Great-billed Heron, 
Grass Owl, Blue-faced Parrot-Finch, Black-throated Finch. The safest and 
wisest move would be to spend a few days around this area then do one of 
Klaus's tours (Kirrama Wildlife Tours) - either his Iron Range tour late 
in the year, or his Bird Week at Bamaga in early January (fly in). 
Unless there is heavy flooding in the northern Wet Tropics, you will be
able to move around OK in this area where it is rare for roads to be cut 
through December. If you do both his tours i.e. in various years, you 
would be fairly certain to get all of the species.
If travelling by yourselves (fly in), once you are at Bamaga, you are 
pretty right - on many days through the wet season, you can drive right 
to the tip (4WD). Iron Range is a different kettle of fish however. If 
you fly in, you have problems with accommodation and transport. The 
airport is quite a few km (10 from memory) from the rainforest. Also 
bear in mind that it is extremely hot up there at this time of year - 
even sleeping at night can be difficult. Klaus's trips are designed 
around air-conditioning and comfort. Another important consideration too 
is that Klaus knows where to find all those species - some can be tricky.
Iron Range will give you Eclectus Parrot, Red-cheeked Parrot and 
Green-backed Honeyeater which are absent from the Bamaga/Lockerbie 
areas. There is a fourth species absent from Bamaga/Lockerbie which 
people overlook - the Double-eyed Fig-Parrot (Marshall's form). However, 
at a Bamaga Bird Week you will also get Pale White-eye, Mangrove Golden 
Whistler, Red-headed Honeyeater, Mangrove Robin (boat trip to the 
islands included in the tour). There is also an option to travel across 
to Boigu Island (against the PNG coast) to get some of the PNG species 
on Australian territory.
You mentioned Chestnut-backed Button-quail - I presume you mean 
Buff-breasted Button-quail. You might be super lucky and get it at Iron 
Range but I would not hold my breath over this one anywhere. We have 
been trying to study it around Mt Molloy for many years but it is an 
extremely difficult species, sometimes putting in a rare appearance and 
then usually disappearing overnight. People who have seen this bird 
should consider it next to a Night Parrot sighting!
Lloyd Nielsen
Mt Molloy  Nth Qld

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