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Trip to Lake Eyre

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Subject: Trip to Lake Eyre
From: "Barbara Burns" <>
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 16:22:52 +1000
Hi,

My sister Joan and I have just come back from a great trip. Thanks to everyone 
for their help and advice. We only went for 8 days but did a lot in that time. 
There is definitely is no need to wait until spring.  There are birds 
everywhere and many are breeding.  We were seeing crimson and orange chats, 
white winged fairy wrens, cinnamon quail thrush, inland dotterals, pied honey 
eaters  etc from the car.

We travelled up through Renmark and Burra to Marree, which was our base and 
from there visited  Muloorina Station, Level Post Bay and Coward Springs.  The 
weather was cold for the first couple of days but then sunny and calm. The 
roads were dry and not dusty, the only complaint was corrugations, particularly 
on the stretch to Level Post Bay. Although we had a four wheel drive, two would 
be fine.

It is not necessary to go to William Creek to see water in Lake Eyre, we had 
excellent views from the Marree to William Creek road where it touches Lake 
Eyre South (before Coward Springs).  Sparkling in the sunshine it really looked 
like an inland sea.  We were able to walk to the water, which was a thrill. It 
was about 600 or 700 metres out over a salt /mud crust that was a bit squelchy 
but bore our weight reasonably well.  Many people were doing the same and there 
were literally hundreds of footprints heading out to the water line. The water 
in South Lake Eyre is not joined to that in the North but is quite extensive 
and very accessable. The only time we saw waterbirds on the lake was from the 
plane from Marree. ($155 per person after the GST for 1 hour 20 minutes).

The best camping place was  Muloorina Station (40 km south of Level Post Bay).  
No facilities but it is very green and there are many sites with a water 
frontage onto a reed filled lagoon which is magic at  Sunrise and Sunset.  The 
waterbirds included great egrets, black commorant,  grey teals and reed 
warblers. We also saw brolgas, a pair of black eared cuckoos, sacred and red 
backed kingfishers, white browed babblers, black kites, tree martins,  rufous 
and brown song larks, zebra finches, variaiegated fairy wrens and unfortunately 
many sparrows. I have never been to Coopers Creek but this spot on the Frome 
river, which is fed by an uncapped bore, is what I have always imagined it to 
be like. The bore water flows out into the lagoon in a shallow stream that has 
steam rising off it.

The other really great camping spot is at Farina (South of Marree) Here you 
will be spoiled with flush toilets, hot showers (home made chip heater),  
barbecues. and carpets of green grass.  The budgerigars are very busy checking 
out nesting hollows and getting ready to start homemaking and there were lots 
of white breasted woodswallows and song larks.  We also saw an emu with 5 
chicks.

The highlights of the birding were the chestnut breasted whitefaces at the 
Thomas and Thomas spot. When we followed the exact directions we found the 
birds easily and as a bonus a pair of Cinnamon Quail thrush. The abandoned car, 
on the left, about 200 metre along from where the faint track leads off  from 
the road was a good pointer. Drive in about a kilometre to the mine site along 
the left hand arm of the track.  We didn't have any luck with the thickbilled 
grasswren.

We had excellent birding one morning on the way  up  in a patch of mallee by 
the side of the road, just out of Morgan. In one spot we saw 7 or 8 black faced 
cuckoos, a number of horsfield bronze and a pallid cuckoo. The cuckoos seem to 
moving in to be ready for the start of the nesting season. One thing we noticed 
was fair numbers of grasshoppers around which may have been attracting the 
birds. Grasshoppers were common right through the trip but not yet in plague 
proportions.

Another good spot was early in the morning on the third day in a dry river bed 
wiith tall redgums. Here there were many mistletoe birds and elegant parrots 
also red capped robins, chestnut breasted white faces, inland and yellow 
thornbills, white winged fairy wrens, rufous whistlers, jacky winters, 
chirruping wedgebills, rufous field wrens, weebills, pardalotes, a restless 
flycatcher, banded plovers with half grown chicks and much more.

Getting up to Marree we started to see orange and crimson chats in full 
breeding plumage. Gorgeous. We almost had it down to a formula. The trick was 
to stop at a really lush patch of vegetation with emu bush out and song larks 
calling.  We would also find pied honey eaters at these spots.

We saw a lot of birds of prey including, brown falcons, little eagle, kestrals, 
black shouldered kites, whistling kites, brown goshawk, and a black falcon at 
Burra over the mine.  We only saw wedge tailed eagles once on a roadside kill. 
It was good identification practice to see such a quantity and variety of 
raptors.We didn't see any Aus Pratincoles or treecreepers and only saw 
Gibberbirds twice. Blue Bonnets and mulga parrots were common on the side of 
the backroad bypass south of Mildura .

Over all it was an excellent trip, nearly everytime we stopped the car we saw  
good birds.  If you have the chance go.

Barbara Burns


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